XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: M18 and FUTABA S9650 servo
PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 22:05:43 
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Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 21:57:53
Posts: 2
Location: FRANCE
Hello,

I'm french so sorry for my bad english.
I received my M18Pro last week :D and I need to assembly Futaba S9650 servo but I don't know how !!!! :cry:
So anyone could help me ?

Thank you


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 01:41:06 
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 16:16:06
Posts: 5
ChrisP wrote:
The hub system is the same proven system that has been in use since the M18 and has proven versatile and reliable.

What type of track/surface/power are you running that you are encountering such problems with your truck? Perhaps there is someway in which the Xray community can help assist you.


I am running std power pack on indoor permafelt carpet. main problems are now sorted by abandoning the kit parts and buying upgrades. My main moan was the very weak joint on drive shaft to axle and the fact that if I tighten up the steering block screws the steering is too tight for the servo to work. If I loosen them off the screws come loose and fall out.


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 Post subject: Re: About the Tools
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 01:46:45 
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 16:16:06
Posts: 5
Thomas P wrote:
Thomas P wrote:
Ive been curious(sorry for bad eng) about the Philips screwdriver that comes with the kit...ive owned 5 Xray Cars, have 2 for now,never gonna sellém.

BUT why isit that the kit comes with a Philips-screwdriver? when most of the screws in the kit is Pozidriv or in such place like steeringblock etc..?..for me it is no problem,since ive got the right tools home..but i do not understand, you will destroy the tool´s tip and the Pozidrive skrew...

any ideas?


May i ask, why can´t i get an anwser on this one?


The supplied screw driver works perfectly on ALL the screws in my m18T kit


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 Post subject: Re: M18 and FUTABA S9650 servo
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 02:26:59 
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 01:02:57
Posts: 915
Location: Washington (State), United States
stt wrote:
Hello,

I'm french so sorry for my bad english.
I received my M18Pro last week :D and I need to assembly Futaba S9650 servo but I don't know how !!!! :cry:
So anyone could help me ?

Thank you


That servo is too big, You need a smaller size to fit without modifications.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 02:29:48 
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Location: Washington (State), United States
Smudge wrote:
]and the fact that if I tighten up the steering block screws the steering is too tight for the servo to work. If I loosen them off the screws come loose and fall out.


You mean the 2.2 screw that holds on the front knuckles to the pivot? I have never heard of anyone encountering this before. Do you think that you might have overtightened the knuckles and stripped the interior threading of the composite material?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 09:53:15 
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 16:16:06
Posts: 5
Mini_Me wrote:
Do you think that you might have overtightened the knuckles and stripped the interior threading of the composite material?


I don't think so, I am using alum knuckles now and have same problem.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:59:53 
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Location: Washington (State), United States
Auh! Well I have a easy solution then. Thread lock compound. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:07:12 
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2005 22:35:08
Posts: 2
Is there any chance that a Rally version of the M18T/MT will be made?

Just wondering :)


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 Post subject: Re: M18 and FUTABA S9650 servo
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 10:48:27 
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Joined: Sun Feb 25, 2007 21:57:53
Posts: 2
Location: FRANCE
Mini_Me wrote:
stt wrote:
Hello,

I'm french so sorry for my bad english.
I received my M18Pro last week :D and I need to assembly Futaba S9650 servo but I don't know how !!!! :cry:
So anyone could help me ?

Thank you


That servo is too big, You need a smaller size to fit without modifications.


Thank you Mini_Me
Someone told me that it was possible to use it :( , I will buy a micro servo


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2007 11:44:50 
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Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 16:16:06
Posts: 5
Mini_Me wrote:
Smudge wrote:
]and the fact that if I tighten up the steering block screws the steering is too tight for the servo to work. If I loosen them off the screws come loose and fall out.


You mean the 2.2 screw that holds on the front knuckles to the pivot? I have never heard of anyone encountering this before. Do you think that you might have overtightened the knuckles and stripped the interior threading of the composite material?


The answer was to purchase steel pivot balls, now I can tighten the bolt through the suspension arm into the aluminium hubs everything is now firm, and the steering is free.

There is now very little of the original kit parts left on the M18T. To make it competitive with other makes of truck on carpet .

Alum Shocks with cut down springs to keep ride height low on carpet
Alum diffs
Alum driveshafts
Alum Hubs
Pivot ball upgraded to steel
Carbon fibre Chassis & top deck ( 'cause it looks good)
Monster wheels and skew tyres to give more roll out and wider footprint (pins gave grip roll)
Modified motor
MRT ESC

It's now a winner!


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 Post subject: Re: About the Tools
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2007 07:57:48 
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2005 22:59:02
Posts: 106
Location: Sweden
Smudge wrote:
Thomas P wrote:
Thomas P wrote:
Ive been curious(sorry for bad eng) about the Philips screwdriver that comes with the kit...ive owned 5 Xray Cars, have 2 for now,never gonna sellém.

BUT why isit that the kit comes with a Philips-screwdriver? when most of the screws in the kit is Pozidriv or in such place like steeringblock etc..?..for me it is no problem,since ive got the right tools home..but i do not understand, you will destroy the tool´s tip and the Pozidrive skrew...

any ideas?


May i ask, why can´t i get an anwser on this one?


The supplied screw driver works perfectly on ALL the screws in my m18T kit


Well there is a diffrence my friend on Working perfect and, right driver-tip for right screw...Xray deliver the KIT with one driver (Philips-Tip), for 2 diffrent sets of screw´s (pozidriv-Philips)

Just check here, Right Upper corner it is a Philip-screw (same on M18MT/T)

http://davxlw.free.fr/m18/M18Pro_Chassis_Comp.jpg

rest is Pozidriv.

My question is: Why Xray send 1! driver when kit have 2 diff set o screws..ya destroy the tool and the other screws...

I dot care, since i have theright tools at home, but im woundering..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 03:38:04 
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Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 20:15:12
Posts: 32
Location: United States, Michigan
^Well Thomas, the answer is simple, cost.

The one screw-driver is a marketing tool to attract people to the products as in, oh, and added bonus, a hudy tool. In actuality, the tool is meant more for marketing than it is for assembly of the kit.

That would be my guess.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 07:18:26 
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2005 22:59:02
Posts: 106
Location: Sweden
I think you are right Supra


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 Post subject: I need help
PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 18:06:53 
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Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2008 17:53:59
Posts: 2
Location: Hong Kong
I just completed assembling my Xray M18T Pro, this buggy is all made of carbon. I have a problem. When a press on the throttle. The front wheels rotate in one direction and the rear wheels rotate in another direction. What should I do?


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 Post subject: Re: I need help
PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 18:18:37 
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Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2004 08:22:54
Posts: 892
Location: Holland
greatestkelvin wrote:
I just completed assembling my Xray M18T Pro, this buggy is all made of carbon. I have a problem. When a press on the throttle. The front wheels rotate in one direction and the rear wheels rotate in another direction. What should I do?


Turn one of the differentials, one is not placed right, look into the manual which one.....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 03:10:26 
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Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 04:34:44
Posts: 1
Location: Jacksonville, FL
This is a little off topic but what is the best(cheapest/reliable) place to buy an m18t rtr???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 09:49:50 
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Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 11:22:56
Posts: 2497
Location: Trencin, Slovakia
jacobgeorge wrote:
This is a little off topic but what is the best(cheapest/reliable) place to buy an m18t rtr???


The cheapest may not mean best. If you are buying a model car you will need service and support as well. Therefore we always suggest to purchase through the regular dealer who will be able to provide you with any help, spare parts and service. Rememeber that in case of any problems the reclamations and service are also available exclusively through the dealers. I suggest you contact xray@rcamerica.com who will let you know which is your nearest hobby story that carries the product you have been looking for.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 19:54:06 
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Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 19:22:48
Posts: 2
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Hi, I just recently bought the M18MT RTR package as an impulse buy at a new lhs near me.(their fresh untarnished fixtures made me trust them). Anyways it's a great car, it runs great and im not planning on racing with this car, im probably going to get a bunch of upgrades and gear it towards torque and acceleration just to run it rough.

heres my question any info on the stock receiver in the RTR package? Also as im not planning to run it a ridiculous distance from myself what would be the most energy efficient type of receiver? keep in mind im fairly new to this and dont really know how much power the receiver takes out of the battery


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 22:16:49 
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Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2004 08:22:54
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Location: Holland
The receiver can work for days on the battery, the motor is the most consuming device in the car.

The battery from the RTR set is about 1200mAh, today you can find these packs up to 1600mAh and if you go for LiPo ou can find packs up to 2200mAh but for LiPo you do need a special charger.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 23:50:18 
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Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 19:22:48
Posts: 2
Location: Ottawa, Canada
thanks, I wasn't sure since when the battery power drops the signal seems to drop specially on the steering, might just be the servo but I just assumed it was the receiver sucked some power and I tried to test the distance on the transmitter but i keep loosing the car in the distance so I thought it was a little bit of overkill. Now that I think about it it's the remote that sends out the signal.


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