XRAY - Model racing cars

hello bro..

i still worn off the trust bearing even after .1mmendplay and .65gap,frequent thick oil application after cleaning coz our surface quite trapping dirt inside.

What grease/lube are you using for the thrust bearing?

Every type of grease will work.

graphite black grease&thick bearing oil every after 2tanks.

How about no grease at all?

Yesterday I raced against one of the best onroad drivers from our area (Northwest US) who also has an NT1. At the beginning of this season, he replaced the original NT1 thrust bearing with one from a different car. He is at the end of his second season using this thrust bearing and he has NEVER greased it.

For my thrust bearing, the new one from Xray, I'm using a very little dab of Mugen Super Grease, every race day.

It can work... but imagine the high rpm's can throw out al lot of grease...
The thrustbearing will live a lot longer when you shimm out the endplay under the clutchbell. An endplay of <0.1 mm will keep the thrustbearing more on its place and will get less punch when engaging the clutch.

I personally do not use the ring with the balls, only a brass ring between the 2 steel discs and works fine to me. Ceramic rings are in order to get a lower friction. This solution will give a flauwless thrustbearing.

I have over 20 hours on my current thrust bearing

No secrets just shim to 0.1 & grease with Mugen super grease every hour

Same here.

Mugen supergrease is nice, but it is thick! I used it but the first time starting on the starterbox, the wheel spin a little because it's so thick

Yes true, I give the clutch bell a few good spins (hit with hand in downward motion ) to get rid of any excess grease before I put the engine back in the car.

The best thing about the grease is it stick to anything & there is always a coating left on the bearings.

HUDY will release shortly new super graphite diff grease. Watch www.hudy.net shortly. Using the diff grease for the axial bearing increases the life of the bearing. The thrust bearing in the clutch must be regularly lubricated and then will last long enough.

Ok guys, here in Brazil i use my NT-1 abou 1 gallon and only one thing I lost is the side belt.

Some guys lost dog bones, bu I put more o-rings and solve my problems.

Thust Bearing, always put grease..... always don't have any problems.

I will start de second gallon, and when is finish i give for all a feedback. I will sell the car in my city.

www.vmautomodelismo.com.br ( Brasilia Championship )

All,

The downloadable XRAY NT1 Instruction Manual in the [url=http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?t=5351&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=]NT1 Knowledge Base (FAQ) thread
[/url] has been updated to allow printing.

Hey guys Im looking at getting an Nt1 for next season .... What kind of hop ups would yall recommend getting before or when I purchase a Nt1 .....Thanx in advance

I only recomend "CVD drive shaft". The car is very consistent, and stock you will be competitive on races.

www.vmautomodelismo.com.br

Allow wheel things... the plastic fall of, very annoying... and the CVD's.. but that's it.. maybe the multidiff to go to solid axle...

stock car is ok for you to starts off,talk bout basic options:UJ for better driving and feel ofcoz zero shaft missing.
yellow shoe for engine tuning performance,depends on how and what you want your clutch to react and also track condition.
fron multi 1way for 3 type settings.
aluminium hexagon if you feel doubt bout the plastis,but we dont have any problems here,we use lock flange wheelnut.
wire sway 2.2&2.4,if you have a nice flat good traction track,why not get the butterfly,it helps alot on kit tuning.

happy hunting!

I race on odd tracks here in norcal. And the multi diff is something i have tested. but i am almost always faster with a diff or spool. I would get diffrent weight diff oils instead of the multidiff for the front, maybe just a spare set of diffs instead. I have 4 front diffs and 3 rear diffs assembled at any given time. that way at the track when required i can put in a diff with 300k, 100k, 80k and 60k. yes i use them all depending on the track and grip.

my list: 5x8x2.5 bearings for the clutch, those seem to die fast. diff oils, the 08 kit fixed the only real complaint about the NT1 07 kit. the cvd's. (the spool setup will get you there above 100k) 100k diff oil, 80k(note for use in front AND rear), 60k(front and rear), and 30k. For sure if you don't already have them a spring assortment. I use everything from 20lb t2 springs in front, mugen front purples, team magic front springs. IMO you can't have enough springs, shock oil and diff oil. Get 450 cst shock oil etc. I lot of it depends on what sort of tracks you run. I run on a lot of very technical tracks that grip varys a lot. but if you run one big euro style track. the stock setup isnt to bad at all. it will get you close. but it has to have the grip to support it. low grip tracks seem to favor T2 long springs with all sorts of crazyness to get the car to rotate how i like it. But on a high bite track its a dream with near stock setup... DK blue nt1 spring(front) seem to be the set i use most. or the 25 lb linear springs.

Patrick...

Sorry about the long wind.. just things i figured were worth sharing

I concur with everything rx7ttlm said. Just this past weekend I used the 20lb (lt blue) T2 springs up front, which gave me excellent grip without a hint of traction rolling when the bite came up. I would recommend having all the pre-built diffs/oils to use as well (I also use Racers Edge 500k in the front diff).

ha!! and my soon to be x girlfriend says i am never right lol