XRAY - Model racing cars

What exactly is the problem with RB Matrix, is the engine mount too long (as described in tech tip for some Novarossi blocks)? Let us know, I'm thinking about getting RB Matrix myself.
As for belt tensioner, I'm also using 25t pulley and have plenty of clearance between the tensioner and engine mount. Are you sure you're not tightening the belt too much?

Also, does anyone know when CVDs will be available in US?
Thanks!

about the rb matrix i have the same engine. what i did is put the long mount first into the chassis then put the smaller one on the engine and then i droop it in place.

Concerning the axial bearing which is in the kit, it is extremely important that you regularly lubricated it with grease and set-up the proper play. The feedback from team drivers is that after 5 hours run (re-greasing the bearing every hour) the axial bearing is still with no problem.

Few different axial bearing designs are in test for future improvements.

I grease the thrustbearing after every run, that's every 30\40 minutes.
Also i know how to setup a centax with the right endplay.
The bearing still broke after short usage, that did not only happen to me so i believe the bearing is a desing flaw. It's not nice to suggest that all these people are wrong and incompetent because the teamdrivers didnt have problems.

I already had to replace the pinions, axial bearing, rubber O-ring for front and rear diff, buy screws for the alu hex that should be in the package etc.
That costs me money but more important a nice day at the track!

Greets, Ron

We also use the standard bearing without any problems. I would recheck your clutch setting because as we started with r/c-cars we had many thrustbearing failures because we had false clutch-settings.

I am racing r\c cars long enough to setup a centax, the only one that ever failed is the one in the kit. Trust me, i know what i'm doing and grease the bearing more then enough. Last bearing lasted a full season.

It seems that some people have problems and other dont, but if Xray say's that they are testing and designing a new one that means to me that the current one isnt what it should be. Maybe there is a "good" and "bad" batch as happens so often with all brands, that could explain why some people have difficulties and some dont.

Unless they are designing just for fun and replace a working bearing for another working bearing???

Anyway, i got it solved now, waiting for the right gearing pinions to drive this amazing car the weekend

Greets, Ron

Remember you can always improve every single thing in the world and XRAY is well known for continuous development and bringing new and better products all the time but at the same time it does not mean that the currect product is bad. This is just the natural development and evolution. I have just reffered that the feedback received from several team drivers and several customers is that the current bearing works after many hours of run with no problem. But we got also some feedback like yours and ourselves we experienced the same problem and that is why a lot of attention is given in the manual on proper clutch setting, notifying importance of very regular maintenance and grease application.

How do one know if it is the right endplay. I just got a Ninja .12 engine I will follow the manual guide that stated endplay is 0.05-0.15mm. From where to were is the endplay measure I have look at the manual and can not figure out for looking at the manual????



Thanks

Measure your endplay same way you measure the clutch gap, but shim it from inside (insert endplay shims between the inner bearing and flywheel nut). Supplemental sheet that came with the kit had location of endplay and gap shims reversed, check page 28 of online manual, it's been corrected.
I never actually measure endplay, I just eyeball it making sure there is little play, I only measure clutch gap...

Same here, endplay is minimal but still visual. It should move just a tiny bit and that should be good...wrong endplay however will distroy the thrustbearing a lot quicker!

Ron

I would bet those experiencing problems with the thrust bearing would find they are a result of high wear on the clutch shoe.

The white shoe that comes in the kit is garbage. From what I have seen it wears far too fast (~.3-.5mm/club day). There is no substitute for a quality shoe; I suggest that everyone toss the stock one and just build their car with the yellow one.

On another note does anyone know when we will see heavier clutch springs and adjustable fly weights?

Mark

Mark where can I find the yellow one does it has to be a specific size???

[quote="HulkRay
Mark where can I find the yellow one does it has to be a specific size???[/quote]

I ordered one through my local dealer about 2 weeks ago and picked it up last Wednesday. The part number is 338575.

Brano can you tell me if these screws are the same as #309350, I am not seeing the 901303 online

Yes, the old part number was #309350 but it was replaced with part number #901303, here is the link where you can find all hardware http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/produc ... egoria=360

@mtveten, I have practiced 5liters and raced 1 race partly in the wets with slipping clutch (so the tires wouldn't break lose in the wet) and I am still using the white clutch shoe I got with the car in mars. The gap in the clutch bell is still less than I am able to measure it. It sounds strange that you have worn the clutch shoe that much? What tension do you have on the clutch spring? I have 1.5mm from the end of the flywheelnut (38550) to the clutch nut (38594) (The manual says 0,8-1,8mm)
And I am still using the same axial bearing.

Personally I never ran the white shoe, I went straight to the yellow one when I heard of the problem and saw it first hand on others cars. I have since gone back and measured mine and found it to have a .3mm variance in thickness with the low point centered on 1 of the guide pin holes.

Mark

Be sure there are no burrs in the clutch bell. I have 2 identicle clutches setup each with the white shoe. One is worn out in 2 race days. The other is still going strong after 3 race days and end play is still the same as when set originally. I even have the spring set tighter to give a smooth power transition, which would make the clutch wear even more. The only difference is on the 2nd, I used wet/dry paper and removed all burrs.

Haven't tried the yellow shoe yet.

Hello from france,
long time I didn't tell you a word.

my car is now 7 liters...

still no problems!!

The font shafts are the same and no problem. I don't have to buy Uni front shaft for the moment.
since I switch to serpent thrust bearing, no problem.
i set the clutch with the manual (yellow shoe).

Mister X Ray, I built a second kit for a friend, and I notice some improvments.
- new brake pads
- the threadted hole in the arms are much better made. Now, it's hard to screw the pivot balls

Thanks for taking account about our remarks.

Romuald

Xray is there upgraded brake pads and Arms available as romuald31 indicated, and are they the same part numbers??