XRAY - Model racing cars

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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 17:42:21 
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team driver
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b.wihardja wrote:
Hi Paul
On the 16second track without lap timer, can you feel if your car is going 1 second slower or faster?



I could not tell, i would know if it were faster or slower but not how much. when traction comes up it improves the cars speed in every way so even just a little bit of traction could result in .5-1sec faster lap times. but feeling 1 full second would be hard.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 04:32:32 
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My front right tire is wearing worse then the others, what causes this ?

I have the kit setup on the car only thing I changed was I reversed the springs I put the 2.7 on the rear.

Some one suggested a different roll center -75?

I race on asphalt


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2013 12:08:26 
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Location: Windsor, UK
yodace wrote:
My front right tire is wearing worse then the others, what causes this ?

I have the kit setup on the car only thing I changed was I reversed the springs I put the 2.7 on the rear.

Some one suggested a different roll center -75?

I race on asphalt


Does your track run anti-clockwise and/or are the fastest corners left turns?

On my local tracks the front left wears quicker because it is under load more during the faster corners


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2013 03:19:49 
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Fastest corners are left turns...

Could any suggest a good outdoor asphalt setup to try?

What will the 2.5 - 2.8 progressive springs do up front ?


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 19:23:47 
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yodace wrote:
Fastest corners are left turns...

Could any suggest a good outdoor asphalt setup to try?

What will the 2.5 - 2.8 progressive springs do up front ?


Hi. The tire wear issue is natural and will change in severity between different layouts depending on the amount of left or right turns, the speed of them and the direction of the layout.

As for set up, here is my basic set up right now. the only thing that i would start with different is 4deg caster blocks in place of 6deg as stated on the sheet. good luck!

xform/index.php?act=view&ID=367&setup=t4


Last edited by Paul LeMieux on Tue Jun 11, 2013 17:15:53, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 00:02:40 
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Posts: 1328
Location: Windsor, UK
Paul LeMieux wrote:
yodace wrote:
Fastest corners are left turns...

Could any suggest a good outdoor asphalt setup to try?

What will the 2.5 - 2.8 progressive springs do up front ?


Hi. The tire wear issue is natural and will change in severity between different layouts depending on the amount of left or right turns, the speed of them and the direction of the layout.

As for set up, here is my basic set up right now. the only thing that i would start with different is 4deg caster blocks in place of 6deg as stated on the sheet. good luck!


Think you forgot the link :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 17:16:28 
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Thanks Skiddens! I edited the post.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 20:39:43 
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hi Paul
if i narrow the front track width what/when would i benefit from it? currently i run 2mm ff and 1.5 fr i just changed it to 1.0 ff and .5 fr?


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 15:57:53 
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greyhead wrote:
hi Paul
if i narrow the front track width what/when would i benefit from it? currently i run 2mm ff and 1.5 fr i just changed it to 1.0 ff and .5 fr?



Hi. The one thing that i normally feel is that the car will have more initial steering or be a touch more edgy. after that it will have a touch more or less steering but which way it goes can depend on the rest of the set up, track and tires. so that is a change that i would make if i were looking for more initial steering

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 22:25:58 
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Paul LeMieux wrote:
greyhead wrote:
hi Paul
if i narrow the front track width what/when would i benefit from it? currently i run 2mm ff and 1.5 fr i just changed it to 1.0 ff and .5 fr?



Hi. The one thing that i normally feel is that the car will have more initial steering or be a touch more edgy. after that it will have a touch more or less steering but which way it goes can depend on the rest of the set up, track and tires. so that is a change that i would make if i were looking for more initial steering

Thanks!

thanks Paul ,could you take a look and let me know if you see anything wrong with this,looking to run this set up this weekend,at a small technical track,bodyshell choices are the mazda s6 or the ltcr normal weight,the car weighs 1356gms,i havent run the spring combo before but there based on how the 2.7's felt
xform/index.php?act=view&ID=480&setup=t4
this is skiddins at the track
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VR8PYBb7WFM


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 17:58:38 
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Posts: 183
ok ,who ever abducted paul please bring him back,i need answers


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 18:24:00 
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Posts: 183
hi paul when you get back can you take a look at this please,thanks
ok ,started the race day with a car that was sweet to drive,after 1 round quali im 7th,so the rest of the day im trying to go faster,but this is where it all went wrong,the rear became very loose as the temps came up,i took the 1mm inner link shim off and although a little better its still loose,tried a 1.3 rear bar,still no good,went from 2.7 to 2.6 helped alot (i posted a faster time)but 3/4 mins in the same again,i tried standing them up,laying them down but just couldnt get the rear to grip,was i overheating the tyres? im not sure as i ran a set cold and it was still loose and didnt get better as they warmed,so what should be done and why,thanks

xform/index.php?act=view&ID=484&setup=t4


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 00:02:45 
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greyhead wrote:
hi paul when you get back can you take a look at this please,thanks
ok ,started the race day with a car that was sweet to drive,after 1 round quali im 7th,so the rest of the day im trying to go faster,but this is where it all went wrong,the rear became very loose as the temps came up,i took the 1mm inner link shim off and although a little better its still loose,tried a 1.3 rear bar,still no good,went from 2.7 to 2.6 helped alot (i posted a faster time)but 3/4 mins in the same again,i tried standing them up,laying them down but just couldnt get the rear to grip,was i overheating the tyres? im not sure as i ran a set cold and it was still loose and didnt get better as they warmed,so what should be done and why,thanks

xform/index.php?act=view&ID=484&setup=t4


Hi Sorry for the small delay in getting back to you. I looked at the set up a good but and it looks like it should have ok rear grip. The first thing that i would try is a thinner front sway bar. At almost any track i have been lately I have found that the 1.3 or 1.2mm front bar will make the car make smoother arch's and stick the rear a little better. You could also go to 400oil in the front and 450 oil in the rear, this would likely make the rear more stable as well. 52mm ECS shafts in the front would likely help a touch as well. If you have time to test I would also try a front diff with either putty, 1million or 2.5Million silicone CST oil, I always prefer silicone as it is more consistent. also i find the inner camberlinks to be more stable in the middle positions, with middle camberlink i would try upping to 2deg camber in the rear.

Those are the first things that i would try, also for high speed stability you can move your wing back on the body a bit.

Good luck!


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2013 00:10:57 
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Posts: 183
Paul LeMieux wrote:
greyhead wrote:
hi paul when you get back can you take a look at this please,thanks
ok ,started the race day with a car that was sweet to drive,after 1 round quali im 7th,so the rest of the day im trying to go faster,but this is where it all went wrong,the rear became very loose as the temps came up,i took the 1mm inner link shim off and although a little better its still loose,tried a 1.3 rear bar,still no good,went from 2.7 to 2.6 helped alot (i posted a faster time)but 3/4 mins in the same again,i tried standing them up,laying them down but just couldnt get the rear to grip,was i overheating the tyres? im not sure as i ran a set cold and it was still loose and didnt get better as they warmed,so what should be done and why,thanks

xform/index.php?act=view&ID=484&setup=t4


Hi Sorry for the small delay in getting back to you. I looked at the set up a good but and it looks like it should have ok rear grip. The first thing that i would try is a thinner front sway bar. At almost any track i have been lately I have found that the 1.3 or 1.2mm front bar will make the car make smoother arch's and stick the rear a little better. You could also go to 400oil in the front and 450 oil in the rear, this would likely make the rear more stable as well. 52mm ECS shafts in the front would likely help a touch as well. If you have time to test I would also try a front diff with either putty, 1million or 2.5Million silicone CST oil, I always prefer silicone as it is more consistent. also i find the inner camberlinks to be more stable in the middle positions, with middle camberlink i would try upping to 2deg camber in the rear.

Those are the first things that i would try, also for high speed stability you can move your wing back on the body a bit.

Good luck!
thanks alot paul,i appreciate your input,im back at the same track in 2 weeks so ill post how i get on


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:06:57 
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Posts: 3
Hi Paul. Our weekend fun track is a concrete parking lot with low-medium traction and a bit bumpy for which i need to raise ride height or else ill risk bottoming out the car. I would like to know the effects of raising the ride height setting to 8-9mm with the T4'14 asphalt base setup? Do i need to change settings to compensate this difference since in every T4 setup that i have browsed through so far, ride height is set at 5-6mm or even lower?

I've ran the T4'14 at 13.5 boosted with FDR of 5.91 for two weekends now; using the base setup but with ride height set at 8f/8.5r; 3f/3r droop over ride height; 2.5f/2.0r springs using 4h 1.1 f/ 3h 1.1 piston r with 100% rebound and 45WT oil for all shocks; 500kf/1kr gear diff oil; Sorex 36R; its really easy to drive and responsive but i do experience oversteer which i blamed my driving skills for that (only a few months in RC)... late in slowing down before turns; still very minimal chassis wear with the current setup :D . Fastest lap time is 12s; i'm usually last with average lap time of 13+s :oops:

Thanks in advance.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 23:03:40 
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acuglass wrote:
Hi Paul. Our weekend fun track is a concrete parking lot with low-medium traction and a bit bumpy for which i need to raise ride height or else ill risk bottoming out the car. I would like to know the effects of raising the ride height setting to 8-9mm with the T4'14 asphalt base setup? Do i need to change settings to compensate this difference since in every T4 setup that i have browsed through so far, ride height is set at 5-6mm or even lower?

I've ran the T4'14 at 13.5 boosted with FDR of 5.91 for two weekends now; using the base setup but with ride height set at 8f/8.5r; 3f/3r droop over ride height; 2.5f/2.0r springs using 4h 1.1 f/ 3h 1.1 piston r with 100% rebound and 45WT oil for all shocks; 500kf/1kr gear diff oil; Sorex 36R; its really easy to drive and responsive but i do experience oversteer which i blamed my driving skills for that (only a few months in RC)... late in slowing down before turns; still very minimal chassis wear with the current setup :D . Fastest lap time is 12s; i'm usually last with average lap time of 13+s :oops:

Thanks in advance.



Hi. Sorry for being so late to respond. Definitely the car would have more steering with the ride height that high, so the car oversteering seems likely. The car bottoming out is not always terrible but i understand if it bothers you. I would maybe try lowering the car and going a bit thicker shock oil (hopefully it will not bottom more but lower will drive more stable) then i would reduce front camber to 1deg and increase the rear camber to 3 deg. then i would try thicker front diff oil. so maybe 6.5mms ride height with those changes should make the car drive easier for a bumpy track.

good luck!


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 04:51:15 
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Posts: 3
Hi Paul thanks for answering and providing a great advice. I'll try lowering ride height with the camber and dampening changes as soon as this coming Sunday, if weather permits . Let you know how it goes. Good luck to you too!


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 09:52:45 
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Posts: 11
Well had my first experience of running an X Ray this last weekend and have to say it was really good, very pleased with the handling and smoothness of the car. However I have had one small problem, twice during the day the frony belt came off the pulley. I am running it loose(ish) but not very loose. So the question is, what tension should I be running the belt at, tight, very tight, loose or very loose, and is there any other reason that might account for the belt coming off.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 11:22:20 
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Oldtimeracer wrote:
Well had my first experience of running an X Ray this last weekend and have to say it was really good, very pleased with the handling and smoothness of the car. However I have had one small problem, twice during the day the frony belt came off the pulley. I am running it loose(ish) but not very loose. So the question is, what tension should I be running the belt at, tight, very tight, loose or very loose, and is there any other reason that might account for the belt coming off.


What wind of motor? For 13.5 boosted I run my front belt two positions tighter than standard. The front belt is long so needs a fair bit of tension in it. This also helps the handling by making the car a lot easier to drive on the power.

The main reason for it coming off is getting stones in the pulley, which usually happens if you go off track (outdoors).


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 14:51:42 
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Running 17.5 Blinky so would assume not quite so necessary to run really tight. However will tighten up slightly and see what happens.

Does the optional belt tensioner work?

Might well have been stones but who can tell afterwards?


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