XRAY - Model racing cars

Thanks for your help.

Paul, you refer me to an online shop in Europe that sells your own traction compound mix, the LG1 and LG2?



Regards
Anders

hi, paul~
under what situation you will use front gear diff?

thx~

Hi, I dont think that any euro on line shopps have it in stock. The only on line shop that i know of that you could order it from today is Nexxus racing. Sorry.

Hi. I have been trying to figure that out. Some tracks i like the gear diff better and some tracks i dont. I cant seem to come up with some common ground between different tracks where i like it better to figure it out. i suggest testing it at every track that you go to for now.

Not much help huh, LOL.

Thanks

because diff on front it makes your car diving into a corner
and its slowing down a little bit when you are turning so you can brake later
its good for every track

personaly,i love diff on front!
i ride in prostock(13.5r with no veriable timing)

As Paul said, for modified front diff isn't good option at all tracks but for stock classes it is

Hi Paul

Just wanted to invite you over to New Zealand and try your hand at RC Stockcar. If anything was a sure fire test for durabilty of the T3 , this is it. I have used my T3 for 5 race meetings and it has taken unbelievable punishment and yet the only thing i broke was a spur gear , due to the motor screws not being thread locked in. I am leading the series with one meeting left. Also placed 3rd at the NZ Stockcar GP. Most people are running Tamiya tt01 because of cheap parts. But i like to do things differently and have raced xray in touring cars.

Basicly the class rules are , doner chassis must be 1/10th scale open to anything. motors have to be brushed , no higher then 23 turn, batterys must be nimh , open capacity. open wheels and tyres, open speedos. car must have steal outer chassis. minium total weight , 2.5kg max 4.5kg. Must resemble full size stockcar. Minimum outer chassis ride height 20mm.

Thats a rough breakdown anyway. These things race on a smooth concrete oval track , or smooth polished wood floor for national events. full fenced inside and out with steel. Full contact 3 minute races. races only stoped if batteries come out. Cars are rolled and take massive hits and some dont finish races but must remain on the track until race is over.

I am running ecs driveshafts, front and rear geared diffs, (that may answer the last question, when is a good time to use front gear diff, when racing rc stockcar , thats when lol) Tekin Rs Speedo , Tamiya Rz motor. 3300 mah nimhs batteries. HPI xpattern rubbers, Steel chassis , 3mm thick alloy base plate.

I have included some photos for ya to have a look at. Theres videos here and there on youtube aswell

Cheers
Dion
Wanganui
New Zealand

heres a couple other photos

and some links of club racing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufRHDW3-NPE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rz-kJLLC ... re=related
enjoy

Yes, it is definately a great option to have. i prefer it sometimes and not others.

Im glad im not the only one who likes it only sometimes, good point, it could be a 4.0T thing. lol

Very Cool, looks like it takes some real craftmanship to get it to look so good. would be fun to rub fenders like that in RC.
Thanks for the info!. If i can ever get to New zealand i will let you know so i can show you how i can break stuff, LOL

Thanks

Hi Paul,

I see alot of set up sheets with thicker oil in the front shocks, why is this ? I've only really used the Xray 450cst on carpet and asphalt, but would like to try some different weights. What oil(s) do you recommend as a starting point for carpet and asphalt ? and when do I need to go thinner or thicker and front or back ?

Thanks.

Hi, I almost always run heavier spring and oil in the front shocks just BC of where the front shocks are mounted to the suspension arm compaired to the rear, farther inboard on the front arm makes everything naturally much softer.
For me the best starting shock oil set up is standard 3hole fixed pistons with 600F and 400R, with 3.0f and 2.6R springs. i will fine tune the oil to try and make the car roll evenly threw the corner with oil. i feel like if i were to use 400 all the way around with 2.8 springs all around the car would nose in to every corner and the rear end would not roll evenly with the front atall, most likely resulting in poor corner speed.
But have seen and been beaten by cars with equal springs and oil, LOl.

The bad thing to me about stiffer front springs and oil is that the car can drive twitchier and if not driven smoothly will overheat the front tires easily on asphalt. For the most part i dont mess with shocks a lot, so their is probably more qualified people to ask, but thats what i think.

Thanks!

Dear Paul

You, amongst all the team drives are somewhat unique in using the plastic shock absorbers.

I am just curious as to why you keep using the plastic shocks, when, as a team driver, you can get the alloy ones.

BTW I can get the alloy ones, but I get by perfectly well with the plastic items - my reasoning, albeit probably wrong, is that they are in fact lighter in weight, so there's a lower unsprung weight.

thanks

Lohan

Hi Lohan, sorry for the delay. i have been traveling and then a small vacation with my family.
Yes i like the plastic shocks. I do sometimes use the aluminum ones and they work great too. I feel like the plastic shocks are easier to build for me, I like that i can fill them and screw the cap on without bleeding them, then i like to let the shock rest upside down for a bit then bleed them threw the bottom cap. I feel it is just a bit easier to build and bleed that way.
The plastic shocks are lighter but i dont think that unsprung weight is the advantage BC all that is truely unsprung is the piston ,shaft, spring cup and bottom ball end, which are the same peces with both aluminum and plastic shocks. The spring, body and caps is not nessissarily unsprung weight. Im sure that someone proper schooling could break that down for us but that someone is not me, LOl.
But in the end Im sure that other drivers would have equally compelling reasons for why they dont use plastic shocks .

Thanks!

thnx - nice to know I'm not the only one who likes the plastic shocks.

I can build them quite well with my shock pump, and have two sets of them, so I have different weight oils in them.

Cheers for your time

No problem

Hi Paul, I know you are busy and this may be a bit to chew on but I am new to the touring car world and looking for some advice.

The track I mainly run at is grey indoor carpet (non RC specific) and is very small. It is a very technical track due to the size. Most lanes are only around 2.5 feet wide and the track ends up having lots of 180 degree turns. The outer dimensions are 60' by 30'.

Here is a video a fellow racer shot that kinda highlights how small the track is. We run rubber tires and 17.5 spec motors. Kinda looking for some good starting spots as i was just going to start with the basic setup sheet provided in the kit and then go from there.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Breteni1?bl ... 4chGLGMWSc

Hi. I think that you are correct to start with the kit set up.
If the car is hard to drive Here are some things that i would try after you get going.
Thicker front shock oil,
narrower rear hexs,
wider front hexs,
more rear camber,
less front camber.

if the car is pushy or too easy to drive I would try.
shorter rear wheelbase (move rear arms forward on the chassis).
longer front wheel base( move front arms forward on the chassis).
more front camber,
less rear toe.


those are some good rule of thumb things to get the car ballanced.

Good luck!