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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 10:24:42 
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Paul,

Did you use different lenght of drive shaft ?

The stock setup is for 42 mm and my 2 nd hand t3 have 50 mm driveshaft.

I will buy some driveshaft for maintenance, so i would like to know your answer about it

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 15:55:25 
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Manson wrote:
Paul,

Did you use different lenght of drive shaft ?

The stock setup is for 42 mm and my 2 nd hand t3 have 50 mm driveshaft.

I will buy some driveshaft for maintenance, so i would like to know your answer about it

Thanks



I normally use 50mm drive shafts. the shorter drive shaft should make the car a bit more responsive, 52s will make the car a bit smoother. i dont think that one is way better than the other but i normally run 50s.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 20:38:11 
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Location: Windsor, UK
Have you tried the 1 hole rear hubs, and how do you feel they compare with the kit items?

I've been running them for over 18months but was wondering if kit hubs would be better.

When do you decide to use 1deg outboard toe instead of just inboard?

THanks
Skiddins


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 21:34:03 
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Skiddins wrote:
Have you tried the 1 hole rear hubs, and how do you feel they compare with the kit items?

I've been running them for over 18months but was wondering if kit hubs would be better.

When do you decide to use 1deg outboard toe instead of just inboard?

THanks
Skiddins



I have tried all three options on the rear hub, i honestly dont really prefer one over the other, I think that the middle hole and the stock short hole are the two better locations, but i dont tune much with it.

I use the 1deg outboard hubs when i want to make the car a little less sensitive on corner entry and have more exit corner steering, all while rolling more over the rear.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 22:40:51 
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Paul LeMieux wrote:
I have tried all three options on the rear hub, i honestly dont really prefer one over the other, I think that the middle hole and the stock short hole are the two better locations, but i dont tune much with it.

I use the 1deg outboard hubs when i want to make the car a little less sensitive on corner entry and have more exit corner steering, all while rolling more over the rear.

Thanks



What does rolling over the rear actually mean in terms of drivability?


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 16:00:30 
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Mera'din wrote:
Paul LeMieux wrote:
I have tried all three options on the rear hub, i honestly dont really prefer one over the other, I think that the middle hole and the stock short hole are the two better locations, but i dont tune much with it.

I use the 1deg outboard hubs when i want to make the car a little less sensitive on corner entry and have more exit corner steering, all while rolling more over the rear.

Thanks



What does rolling over the rear actually mean in terms of drivability?



Hi. To me a car that rolls over the rear more will be less responsive going in to the corner then have more steering coming out of the corner, it will not drive as direct or twitchy with more rear roll. I also feel like a car that rolls over the rear can sometimes have more rear traction at high speeds. easier to drive in sweeping sections.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 05:46:56 
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Paul LeMieux wrote:
Hi. To me a car that rolls over the rear more will be less responsive going in to the corner then have more steering coming out of the corner, it will not drive as direct or twitchy with more rear roll. I also feel like a car that rolls over the rear can sometimes have more rear traction at high speeds. easier to drive in sweeping sections.

Thanks



Okay, so at my track I am having two problems...

1) I am pushing as I enter the turn and need to use brake to get the car to swing around. I know it is mainly my driving but is there anything I can do to get the car not to push into the corners and thought the sweeps.

2) we have some bigger sweep turns at the end and beginning of the straight that I have to reduce too much throttle to keep from pushing. I am loosing too much ground here. How can I get more front end grip with out sacrificing rear grip?

I went back to the stock rubber tire setup from the xray site. Seems like going with the 1 degree hubs would help keep the rear grip up when doing changes to the front to help get more steering.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 19:30:27 
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Mera'din wrote:
Paul LeMieux wrote:
Hi. To me a car that rolls over the rear more will be less responsive going in to the corner then have more steering coming out of the corner, it will not drive as direct or twitchy with more rear roll. I also feel like a car that rolls over the rear can sometimes have more rear traction at high speeds. easier to drive in sweeping sections.

Thanks



Okay, so at my track I am having two problems...

1) I am pushing as I enter the turn and need to use brake to get the car to swing around. I know it is mainly my driving but is there anything I can do to get the car not to push into the corners and thought the sweeps.

2) we have some bigger sweep turns at the end and beginning of the straight that I have to reduce too much throttle to keep from pushing. I am loosing too much ground here. How can I get more front end grip with out sacrificing rear grip?

I went back to the stock rubber tire setup from the xray site. Seems like going with the 1 degree hubs would help keep the rear grip up when doing changes to the front to help get more steering.



Hi. here are some options
narrower front hexs: the car will definately cut in to the corner harder.

0deg rear uprights: this will also help the car with initial steering.

front wheelbase: longer front wheelbase will increase steering, when you do so also move your ackermann shimming forward the same amount to keep the same ackermann.

Lay down rear shocks: this will increase your rotation in the center of the corner and in sweeping corners.
More front camber: More front camber will also add steering all around.

I would think that one or more of these adjustments could help or cure both of your problems.

Thanks!!


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 17:47:55 
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My old body is quite wrecked now and now I'm looking for a new one.
I am driving a Protoform MG ZS body (200mm) on my T3'11 wich is very nervous on the back.
What will be a good replacement?????


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 02:08:36 
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Location: Windsor, UK
metro '82 wrote:
My old body is quite wrecked now and now I'm looking for a new one.
I am driving a Protoform MG ZS body (200mm) on my T3'11 wich is very nervous on the back.
What will be a good replacement?????


PF Mazda Speed 6

Get the proper 190mm TC version


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 16:42:09 
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metro '82 wrote:
My old body is quite wrecked now and now I'm looking for a new one.
I am driving a Protoform MG ZS body (200mm) on my T3'11 wich is very nervous on the back.
What will be a good replacement?????



As Skiddens said, The speed 6 is the most common body in 190mm TC racing. there are others that work well but the speed 6 is the most neutral.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 11:01:37 
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Location: Poland
what do you do to have more grip in chicanes?
you make rear softer or what?


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 16:21:21 
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Hi. Kinda a hard question. for more grip you will most likely have to take away steering, is the car getting loose during switch back or entering?. I would try 14g static weight on the front end of the chassis. this will definately make the car easier to drive but not as reactive. also if you have a lot of rear droop you could take some out.

Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 16:43:32 
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Paul LeMieux wrote:
Hi. Kinda a hard question. for more grip you will most likely have to take away steering, is the car getting loose during switch back or entering?. I would try 14g static weight on the front end of the chassis. this will definately make the car easier to drive but not as reactive. also if you have a lot of rear droop you could take some out.

Thanks.


during switch my back is "dancing"-just drifting
so you suggest me to add weight on rear and make front shocks stiffer,so the whole weight will go faster from front to the rear?


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 16:59:47 
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Stanley Bąk wrote:
Paul LeMieux wrote:
Hi. Kinda a hard question. for more grip you will most likely have to take away steering, is the car getting loose during switch back or entering?. I would try 14g static weight on the front end of the chassis. this will definately make the car easier to drive but not as reactive. also if you have a lot of rear droop you could take some out.

Thanks.


during switch my back is "dancing"-just drifting
so you suggest me to add weight on rear and make front shocks stiffer,so the whole weight will go faster from front to the rear?



Hi. I think that you will want to do the opposite, add weight to the front of the chassis with 3.0 or maybe 2.8 front springs.
It may sound weird but it should work better than going stiffer spring and adding weight to the rear.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 17:08:39 
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Paul LeMieux wrote:
Stanley Bąk wrote:
Paul LeMieux wrote:
Hi. Kinda a hard question. for more grip you will most likely have to take away steering, is the car getting loose during switch back or entering?. I would try 14g static weight on the front end of the chassis. this will definately make the car easier to drive but not as reactive. also if you have a lot of rear droop you could take some out.

Thanks.


during switch my back is "dancing"-just drifting
so you suggest me to add weight on rear and make front shocks stiffer,so the whole weight will go faster from front to the rear?



Hi. I think that you will want to do the opposite, add weight to the front of the chassis with 3.0 or maybe 2.8 front springs.
It may sound weird but it should work better than going stiffer spring and adding weight to the rear.


Hi
but why add weight to front?
so front will have more grip...and rear less


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 17:27:11 
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Hi. I think that you will want to do the opposite, add weight to the front of the chassis with 3.0 or maybe 2.8 front springs.
It may sound weird but it should work better than going stiffer spring and adding weight to the rear.[/quote]

Hi
but why add weight to front?
so front will have more grip...and rear less[/quote]


More weight dose not always mean more grip. Adding weight to the front will give more rear traction. test it both ways yourself, try 3.2 F spring and add weight to the rear, then try 3.0F spring and add weight to the front. you will find that the car will be much easier to drive and have more rear traction with the 3.0 spring and weight in the front of the car.

Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 19:57:17 
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Hi Paul,
I'm refering to your 2011 fall classic set up,you were using Paragon as your additive. Firstly, is it the Fx 2 or the ground effects. Secondly, how do you treat the sweep tires with the paragon on carpet, do you just appy it on a rag and just rub it, or do you let it soak wet until it dries up. Thirdly, is there a specific timing when to apply the Paragon before every run. Because i believe every additive has its own unique way of applying it,especially with loads of different brand of tires available on the market with different characteristic of rubber. Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Eddy


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 16:34:00 
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Eddyanna wrote:
Hi Paul,
I'm refering to your 2011 fall classic set up,you were using Paragon as your additive. Firstly, is it the Fx 2 or the ground effects. Secondly, how do you treat the sweep tires with the paragon on carpet, do you just appy it on a rag and just rub it, or do you let it soak wet until it dries up. Thirdly, is there a specific timing when to apply the Paragon before every run. Because i believe every additive has its own unique way of applying it,especially with loads of different brand of tires available on the market with different characteristic of rubber. Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Eddy


Hi Eddy. The paragon that works best for carpet is the Black can "ground effects". any experience that i have had with FX2 for rubber carpet has been bad. with paragon black can i simply put it on 20min or so before the run and wiped it off just before, not a super hard wipe. Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 17:07:06 
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for the info. I assume the 20 minutes would be for both front and rear. To tame steering especially with Paragon is there a different if lets say applying full front with less timing than the rear VS applying the inside half only with the same duration as applying to the rear?. Thanks

Regards,
Eddy.


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