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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 19:02:00 
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Eddyanna wrote:
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the info. I assume the 20 minutes would be for both front and rear. To tame steering especially with Paragon is there a different if lets say applying full front with less timing than the rear VS applying the inside half only with the same duration as applying to the rear?. Thanks

Regards,
Eddy.



Hi. yes for sure, i would say that depending on the track and ballance of your set up you could want to do it a number of different ways. 20min rear saucing 10min front. or simply half front sauce if you want the car to start out with less steering. Normally i find that saucing half front is a more effective way to get the car to be less aggressive at the very very begining as apposed to just doing the fronts for less time.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 18:06:11 
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hi paul..
wanna ask something if u dont mind..coz i'm getting lost right now..
is droop=downstop? :shock:


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 19:13:21 
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kakaroctt wrote:
hi paul..
wanna ask something if u dont mind..coz i'm getting lost right now..
is droop=downstop? :shock:


Good question because i never even thought about the fact that their are different names for it.
''Droop" and ''downstop'' are the same thing.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 21:11:55 
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I will have to disagree here with you Paul.
They are used to describe the same thing but are different measurements.
Downstop is the distance of the suspension arm from the bottom of the chassis.
Droop is the distance the car is allowed to travel upwards before the wheels lift from the ground.

So if you have a car with eg f:6 and r:5 downstop values if you change the ride height these values will stay the same but the droop will change.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 21:29:57 
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True. and this is why i always provide the "above ride height" value, so it is consistent with different thickness chassis or different ride height. I suppose what i was trying to say is that you would turn the same screw to adjust your droop, downstop, down travel or what ever the terminology may be.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 21:45:38 
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Don't try to cover it up Paul.
You messed up.
The new thread will be "Q&A with taz" :D

Just messing with you. I still need all the help you can give us.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 21:51:26 
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lol


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 22:28:33 
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Now about the help I was talking about.
I race mostly at an outdoor large (as in I can put my 1:1 car in it and race in it large :D ) asphalt track.
The traction is extremely low most of the time, probably lower than anything you have encountered.
For some reason normal low traction setups do not seem to work.
eg normally for low traction one would use 700cst oil in the rear diff, if you do that here then you have too much rotation in the rear during corner entry and the car may spins out, also during corner exit one or the wheels spins while the other grips so again you may spin out.
The tires are any brand as long as they are 36 rated (good for the summer but during the winter very difficult to keep them up to temperature)
Here is the last race from our national cup

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdnW-DNv ... r_embedded

The car the camera is following is the winner's car (a Hot Bodies TCX)

My setup is more or less this.
xform/index.php?act=view&ID=94&setup=t3_2012

I have changed my body for a Protoform Mazda speed 6 which I seem to like so far.
The Sorex 36 I used for the race were a big mistake as they need higher temperatures to work, sweep 36 r seem to have a wider temperature range.

Any ideas on setup changes for this track?


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 22:40:33 
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Ok, after all this writing I realized I forgot to describe what my car does.
It suffer from general lack of grip, meaning that it might push in the corner breaking zone and then be loose in the rear. Also it fish tails during corner exit.
When traction is higher it seems to be better but this is to be expected.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 17:01:26 
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taz00 wrote:
Ok, after all this writing I realized I forgot to describe what my car does.
It suffer from general lack of grip, meaning that it might push in the corner breaking zone and then be loose in the rear. Also it fish tails during corner exit.
When traction is higher it seems to be better but this is to be expected.


Hi. Well, i don't have much experience with tracks like that. obviously my suggestions aren't tested but here is mt train of thought.
I would first run the longest front and rear camberlinks possible. This makes the roll center more stationary during roll and weight transfer. hopefully will help keep the car stable and have more consistent traction.
I would also try low roll center blocks with stiffer springs like 2.8R 3.2F. Hopefully this will simply plant the tire to the ground and create traction.
Then i would try a front gear diff with 500k and a rear ball diff. this should make the car easier to drive.

I think that this stuff could work, but the most important thing about a track like that is to be absolutely smooth behind the wheel.

hope some of those ideas work. Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:15:01 
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Location: Finland
Regarding your Snowbirds X12 setup:
Is there a 3mm shim between caster block and lower arm per side, or total 3mm (1.5mm on left and 1.5mm on right)?
I've used 1.5mm or 1.9mm per side until now, have to try 3mm then!

Are Gravity tyres same as Contact magenta/pink?

How do the AE springs compare to Xray ones?

And what are the Xtra hard side springs?


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 17:31:24 
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Posts: 39
Hi paul I have an xray T3R. i upgraded my rear diff to a gear diff.

Can I kindly ask just between car comparison if the T3R can catch up to the hpi tcx?

Or do i basically need to upgrade to a 2012 T3?

hoping for your kind reply. Thanks :D


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 16:25:30 
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Peakki wrote:
Regarding your Snowbirds X12 setup:
Is there a 3mm shim between caster block and lower arm per side, or total 3mm (1.5mm on left and 1.5mm on right)?
I've used 1.5mm or 1.9mm per side until now, have to try 3mm then!

Are Gravity tyres same as Contact magenta/pink?

How do the AE springs compare to Xray ones?

And what are the Xtra hard side springs?


Hi. yes, 3mms per side. so the uprights are 6mms total closer together than the kit. it just makes the car smoother and easier to drive. i think it also helps the front end work better by reducing the bump steer slightly.

The Gravity Tires are not the same as contact Majenta/Pink. of all the contact tires my soft and med would be closest to the contact Pink/majenta though.

Im not totally sure how they compare. I think our gold is a hair softer than a Asc .20 but is more progressive.

The Xtra Hard side springs are old 10th scale front end spring from the mid 90's that i was able to find at the birds. super stiff.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 16:30:19 
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boggsy wrote:
Hi paul I have an xray T3R. i upgraded my rear diff to a gear diff.

Can I kindly ask just between car comparison if the T3R can catch up to the hpi tcx?

Or do i basically need to upgrade to a 2012 T3?

hoping for your kind reply. Thanks :D


Hi. Thanks for the message, sorry for the delay as i have been traveling.
I have worked on and driven T3R's in the past and i always really liked that car, the flexy chassis and all made it really good to drive for me. The Gear diff is definately a good upgrade as well.

That being said, I cant answer your question, I have never worked on or driven a TCX before and or really set up a T3R for myself at a major race. My Feeling is Yes you can make a T3R as good as a Tcx but i cant back that up.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 04:20:15 
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Posts: 39
Thank you very much paul on your answer. I will stick to my t3R and really tune it to its optimum level. Have a nice day and thank you again :D


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 21:48:45 
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Hi Paul

I find my car is very well balanced in higher grip conditions. However, on a cold damp track which is drying, grip is lacking overall with an especial tendency for the car to push and lacks rotation (more noticeable on power).

As the grip comes up, the pace relative to others becomes better and better - however I do struggle earlier in the day? Any ideas - I saw your post on lengthening the camber links which I will try - any ideas of what I could do with the front of the car?


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2012 15:25:09 
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Quincy wrote:
Hi Paul

I find my car is very well balanced in higher grip conditions. However, on a cold damp track which is drying, grip is lacking overall with an especial tendency for the car to push and lacks rotation (more noticeable on power).

As the grip comes up, the pace relative to others becomes better and better - however I do struggle earlier in the day? Any ideas - I saw your post on lengthening the camber links which I will try - any ideas of what I could do with the front of the car?


Hi Quincy. It is odd to me that when traction is low the car pushes more on power. I would try narrowing the front of the car from the inside hinge pins. if you have 1.5mms spacing behind the lower sus mounts maybe try the 1.15 "gold" shim instead. I dont think this will help your on power steering problem but if the car is getting more front grip in the corner it might be better coming off. that is what i would try first.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 23:33:13 
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Joined: Sun May 13, 2012 21:44:53
Posts: 2
Hello,

I hope you can help me out.
Im new in Xray, I bought a used Xray T2 009 EU edition with 81T Spurgear / 48P
-im planning to run 9t brushless motor for the meantime
-what is the recomended pinion(s) for this setup?
-and what is a recomended gearing (spur gear and pinion) for this car to run fast on track.

thank you.


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 15:34:25 
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Hi. For a 9.0 motor i would start with a 112/35, or a 6.0 overall ratio. This will be safe for a non timing speed controller set up. if you will be using a Timing advance speed controller i would suggest starting with maybe 112/32 then apply timing advance.

4.0 motor i use: 116/25, 8.8 ratio
4.5 motor 116/26, 8.4 ratio.


hope that helps, thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Q&A with Paul Lemieux
PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 22:33:18 
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Joined: Tue May 22, 2012 22:01:35
Posts: 2
Mr.lemieux

first sorry for my bad english :oops:
i have a question to ask.... i buy alu shock absorber set for my xray t3 2012.
the thing i want to ask is what hole piston i should use 2 hole or 3 hole for front and rear?
and what diameter hole i should use 1.0 - 1.1 - 1.2 front amd rear?
the last thing what shock oil is the best combination for me?

my track condition is carpet with medium grip.lenght 30 metre widht 16 metre

Thx for your time.


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