XRAY - Model racing cars

I hear you bro! Shit does develop. If I can t get to the track I try to just run it wit ha few friends trucks to test my setups.

I honestly dont know why manufacturers have shit-canned out trucks and only make bodies that fit other trucks. And even when they make a body for our truck it requires mods and retardedness to get it to fit. WHATEVER MAN! Id rather own an XRAY than a "ME2" car.

I, too, appreciate the quality of the xray. And Id rather work through the issue of the lid myself than have xray take time away from something more important to the function of the car worrying about wether the lid fits. However, if we're comparing our cars to Ferraris and Lambos, I sort of expect no detail to be over-looked or discounted. Unless the price reflects that drastically.

Now you have shamed me into scrapping MY lid too.......

LoL...Im just saying man! We payed $600 for these trucks at least lets have a decent lid. When they updated the truck to 09 spec they never even updated the lid, which sucked big time. Seemed like a rush job. The front of the stock lid scrapes the font shocks too much because of the new length of the chassis.

I think we need Xray to get on this one already. Make it a priority to get this body done and reasonably more durable as opposed to the last lid!

Well something tells me that after this toy fair thing we might have a few answers or at least alternatives other than the like of my "custom fabrication"...

We're just payin the price for being among the first to own one. Compared to what I was used to, I don't mind. I got a couple more months to see what happens. STILL praying for a Short Course truck from Xray.......4WD.....Electric.....

That would be cool, anything 1/10 4wd would be cool from xray. Id buy one lol. We'll see what develops, If my next lid doesnt fit Im going to start a petition on this forum for the new body to come out A.S.A.P.

It truly is a shame to see cheap truck like my friends D8T to have a perfectly fitting body while I have to leave my truck nude. I think it costs customers more to constantly buy/modify bodies then to just release this new body already and solve this issue. Cuz it is something extremely dumb to deal with.

Scroll down towards the bottom, you can't miss it
viewtopic.php?t=121&start=1500

new body is coming in tomorrow. When I cut it out I will let you guys know how it goes....or doesnt go lol.

Hey Pickle, is this the lid you refer to?:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... uzion-Body

Or is it this one?:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_inf ... gen-MBX-6T

The one I currently have is the Pro Line Shift for the Jammin X2. My next one will be the pro line Bulldog for the Mugen MBX6T. I'll probably order it in the next couple of weeks.

Pickle...the bulldog fits great. I ended up lowering the mounts by one hole though because it did sit a bit high. Taking a dremel to my towers sucked but its better than making custom posts for that retarded illuzion body.

Also make sure that you align it real straight front to back or else the front might rub on the springs and set the body off a bit in the rear too. But besides that its a real snug fit.

Can you post a pic of the side view with the camera level with the truck kinda the way it is in the pic of the rear

Here you go...Hope this is what you want to see.

Thanks for the pic was just wanting too see it from the side before I ordered one

If you decide on it just lower the mounting posts a bit to where the top hole on the post screws into the bottom hole on the tower. Then all u have to do is make one more hole for the bottom part of the post. Thats in the rear though I never lowered the front posts.

Looks good Tony. I will be ordering mine in a couple of weeks with an upgrade body wrap. I'm also adding the Mugen rear post since they are designed to flex and let the chassis flex without stressing the body.

Hey Brad does this mean you are gonna run Xray this year? If you are looking at truck body's that is a good sign. See ya at Wolfpack.

Oh cool didnt know about the Mugen mounts. Good to know and post pics as soon as as you get it done. I bet itll look good. Upgrade has insane products. I liked my old black wheels when I had my Jconcepts mounted so when I ordered my premounted calibers they were only available in white wheels so I found these wheel stickers from Upgrade that matched the color scheme. Cant wait to hit the track when it warms up a bit here. Also got a new OFNA truggy starter box. I have a good feeling for this year.

Just a suggestion. NOTE: I have not done this yet, but it is what I plan to do.

I just ordered a stock Mugen MBX6T body for my truck. (I have the old version, not the 09 spec, but the same thing applies...)

I've been running the Mugen rear posts, they're pretty effective in allowing for flex without damage to the body... but... they sit too high using the stock holes in the shock tower.

I don't like the idea of drilling my "pimptastic" aluminum towers. (Even when I upgrade to the new chassis I have no intention of running the carbon stuff- I wreck WAY too much!)

So... here's the plan:

I'm going to take some 1/8" thick aluminum and cut some strips about 1/4" wide. )I say "about" because this isn't rocket science... and I don't have a machine shop at my disposal.)

Then I'll clamp a strip to the shock tower and "match drill" the holes... move it 1 hole space, and repeat... and again a second time. That will give me 4 holes at the stock spacing, which incidentally the Mugen mounts fit correctly. Countersink the next to the bottom hole. Round the corners off with a dremel. Done.

A power miter saw with a carbide tipped wood blade is adaquate for small jobs like this- it goes through aluminum like butter. Of course a metal cutting blade is BETTER, but not mandatory.

The body mount is first attached to the aluminum part we just made, using a countersunk bolt... then the part is bolted to the shock tower through the 2 normal mount holes using regular bolts and locknuts.

NOTE: If you only want to go down 1 hole, only drill 3 holes instead of 4 and there is no need to countersink... just put the long bolt that goes into the body mount through the tower and the middle hole. If you want to go down the equivilant of 3 holes, make a strip with 5... again countersink the next to the bottom hole. And no need to countersink the bottom hole, the Mugen posts have a little plastic locating pin and attach with one bolt if I remember correctly.

This will give a lot of options for height of the rear post with a miniscule amount of cost (none in my case, I already have some aluminum left over from another "meathead project") and a little bit of time invested. A good excuse to play with power tools and drink beer. lol

I hope someone finds this to be helpful.