XRAY - Model racing cars

Hey everyone!

Like Jerome and Bren I too will open my own ask and answer topic.

I will do my best to keep up with my race reports, set-ups and every day Xray Q&A here so if you need me just let me know.

Thanks,
Jason

Any questions? How do you keep your stuff from getting stolen out of a truck? Haha

Well first you take your stuff to your hotel before you go out to eat and second you make sure the guy you rode with locks the truck!!!!!


So.......where's the Ask Josh Wheeler thread?

Jason,
I have a XT8 2009 Spec and noticed that the plastic servo sever arm twists like crazy (doesn't break). Have you notice that and is there a fix for it? I see there is a V2 for sale by Xray and it claims its 30% stiffer, but my truck is only couple months old so I'm assuming I already have it. I don’t see Kingheads making one from aluminum, any suggestions?
Norbert

Norbert, I sure have not heard of this and my truck is one of the originals (almost 2 years old) and I'm still running the original servo saver arm.

1. I would check the end points on your radio set up to see if you have your throw maxed out. The wheels can only turn so far and if the servo still has room to stretch than it could be twisting the servo saver arm.

2. You can purchase just that arm and the piece below without buying the whole set up, that should save you a little $.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/produc ... 7&catName= - Composite Servo Saver

Hope this helps.

I was at a Pro Series race recently and had an issues fo the dog bone popping out of the drive cup, the pin was worn pretty badly and the cup wasn't in the best of shape, but not to terrebly bad either. I run alot of droop in the rear ( which is wear the issues was, on the right side only). I don't run alot of cambe in the rear. i changed it to 0deg and it helped me in the next 3 q's, then in the main it did it again, it looked like my turnbuckle backed out and the camber changed on me, can a-arms strech over time, I've not replaced them in the last year? would too much droop cause this, the worn pin or drive cup be an issue.

What happened in Garland, everytime i left to get a drink you were catching 1st and then sounded like engine trouble? I have to admit I wasn't paying much attention to the standings, but you made those Xrays look like they were on rails, that was some fancy drivin.

Well yes I could see that happening with max drop and 0 to positive camber. When you take a hard crash the plastic arm can be extended even further which will pull the dog bone out of the outdrive. Why is it you like to run full droop in truck? Whith the size of the tires and the amout of max droop you can adjust, for me, it just creates to much chasis roll and it makes the truck feel slow and sluggish. If you like to run alot of droop that's fine but you may limit it just enough so that the dog bones can't come out.

Both of my cars were awesome in Garland. In truck the bottom screw that holds the knuckle came out while leading and caused the dog bone to come out. We popped it back in and I continued with the wheel flopping around. I didn't really think I was going to finish the race but I did and still managed to finish 2nd. In buggy I flipped upside down and the marshall grabbed the fly wheel and killed the car. We tried to stretch out my pit stops to make up for one less stop which I should not have done becase I was driving so much harder I ran out of fuel on my pit lap twice. Oh well there will be next time.

Thats what happened to you, I thought you were rockin it out there, sorry to here that screw came loose.

As for why I run max droop, still triin to learn my driving style, just started getting used to using brakes, still learning that, and turning while braking (entering the turn) it seems alot easier with the droop to me. I been rebuilding my truck and I think your right The droop was the cause or the mishap with the dog bone, didn't happen on a wreck , just after landing a jump is when I noticed it.

Ive heard of many tire combos that people use but what are your "go to" tires most of the time? Do you guys mix it up front and rear or run the same tire all around? also do you guys run the same springs all around (blue front and blue rear) or do you use harder springs up front and softer in rear? Most Xray drivers Ive encountered always run the same color springs all around but many other drivers always vary the spring rates front and rear. Whats your take on this?

was wondering if you could give me some advice on setting up my shocks on my converted 808e? i was told to run 1.3five hole w/40 losi silver (frony)and 1.3 5hole w/27.5 losi and grey blue(rear).does this sound right to you? my track is hard packed with alot of dust and mostly big jumps and a small set of woops. i cant seem to get it right so that the car drives halfway decent. im always bottoming out on the jumps and bouncing all over the place. i do also have the new pistons and the new bladders. please help...
oh i am running a 4cell 5000mah thunder power lipo's, 1900kv tekin system. in case that matters on weight. THANKS JESSE

Hey Tony,

As for "go to" tires it would definitly be the Pro-Line Calibers. They work on almost any type of condition so "when in doubt" Calibers. Actulay on the mixing of tires, that usualy pertains to compounds to me and yes I do this often. When I'm looking to gain steering or free up the rear end, weather on a mild to high grip track, I like to mix the compounds up inorder to achieve this. Its a quick fix without searching for a different set-up on the car. Ex. M3 Calibers on the front for steering grip and M2 Calibers to free the rear end up to help gain steering. Sometimes though, and you will know, that this is just not possible becuase you will spend a qualifier trying to keep the rear end from passing you..lol

My main set-up calls for the stock silver springs but if a track gets really rough I like to go to a tad lighter oil with the blue grays for quicker rebound. Sometimes I will run the blue greys on just the front if I'm running on a high bite track to keep the front from digging in and causing oversteer.

I haven't experimented much with the other colors though.

Hey Jesses,

Well from what I know the electric car carries more weight than a gas car does and from what you're describing to me its too light. I would advise you to go to a smaller hole 1.2 and either try the same oil or go heavier. I would also go heavier, to see for yourself, with the 1.2's to 45 or 50/front and 37.5 or 40/rear.

Try that and let me know what you think.

thanks jason, i will sure give it a try and let you know how it works!

I always start with M3 Revolvers because they are pretty versatile and always easy to drive. They aren't neccessarily the "fastest" tire but they are always a safe bet.

the spring situation is all about what you are looking to achieve. in low traction situations i feel like a stiffer front spring can cause your car to push but in a high traction situation it can help give you more steering.

we run on tracks that are like on-road asphalt tracks with jumps they have so much traction so I usually always start with Blue/Grey Front springs and Silver Rear springs. hope that helps

anyone using the new 8 and 10 holes shock pistons with good results? thanks!

Very well put and makes total sense. Ive been running calibers on my xt8 for the longest and every time I change things start to feel funky. I will take your advice and mix up the compounds as that sounds like the perfect solution for under/oversteer fixes. I also agree that most of the time its the tires and not the actual set up thats making you scratch your head.
As for the springs I totally get it. Some times harder in the front keep you pointing straight instead of spinning out from too much grip. Im running the blues up front and the blue-greys in the rear at the moment and it feels right.

Might be a stupid question but when will you know if you need more rebound? depends on the bumpiness or roughness of the track? And how do you determine to lighten the oil vs spring ?

To tell you the truth, rebound does not have enough affect (to me) to worry about how much rebound to set up for a certain situation. I usualy run about 30% all the time just to make sure I have that pressure set up in the shock and to show that its not dead.

Oil to me depends on the temp. and roughness of the track. Now that we are racing in 95+ degree weather here in Houston that automaticaly means I will be running heavier oil. Along with temp, track conditions help me fine tune the oil. If the track is rough then you can't be too heavy because the shock is too slow to react but it can't be too light because you don't want to chasis slap off of every little or big jump on the track. Its all about finding the happy medium,weather it be oil, pistons or springs, that's comfortable to you, to where you think the suspension reacts to the obsticles on the track the best it can.

For me I like for my car to be as reactive as possible, firm suspension, without it being too stiff and causing a loss of traction and corner speed. I can't stand when the chasis is transfering weight everywhere making the car look sloppy and feeling sluggish.

It might be easier if you kept a log of certain track types, temps (I carry the Hudy temp, time and humidity guage with me everywhere I go) and conditions where your car peformed well and that sticks out in your mind. You can refer back to the log when your not sure what to do or when you run into a similar situation.

Yea I know I'm a RC Dork! lol

haha...arent we all dorks?
I hear what you're saying its just overwhelming sometimes and the combos are infinite especially with these new pistons that came out recently. Some times its like do I change the springs/pistons or the oil?!?!?! Its tough but I guess I need more experience to get it down.

What shocks are these? And whats the difference compared to Xrays?

http://gallery.neobuggy.net/2010-Races/ ... JpDwR-A-LB

They are not Xray....they are Kyosho.