XRAY - Model racing cars

Metal bushings
different front arms with more down travel
front brace
long motor mounts like the King Headz mugen mounts to stop clutch bell from hitting chassis
better shock boots
smaller o-rings for diffs and shocks to stop leaks (and washers)
ceramic bearings
threaded shock bodies
wider front and rear hubs
1 piece upper shock mounts
alum servo mounts and horns
yellow wings and dish wheels
thinner pipe wire
front top plate with no countersunk holes
insert bushing trees with only .5's (instead of only 2 per bag)
machine bulk head screws
fiber brake disks (no pads needed)
48 tooth center diff gear option
softer springs
adjustable 2 shoe carbon clutch
stronger front upper tie rods
adjustable rear hub toe
lithium battery packs
differnt knuckles/steering posts to adjust bump steer and roll steer


Even with all these options I would like to see, the XB8 is the best out of the box race car I have ever driven.

The first things I think we need to see are

Better bushings (no more plastic)
Better/Stronger turnbuckles
aluminum shock tops (no more plastic)
Front chasis brace
One piece engine mount
CNC knuckles
aluminum sterring servo mount

I do belive the first three are a must and the others would just be nice..

Here's mine.

1. Lower A-arms (all) which are beefier and allows more downtravel.

Personally, I'd reformulate the plastic again for more flex. I'd rather have an arm WARP first rather than snapping. A warped arm will allow you to finish w/ decreased performance. A snapped one will take you out of a main.

2. lower engine mount to allow easy engine removal while maintaining proper gear mesh.

Given that the XB8 has more chassis flex. I'd like it so that there's a separate lower engine mount like the K-cars so that it's easier to remove the engine WHILE maintaining proper gear mesh.

3. Even stronger front upper turnbuckles.

After I snapped the XRAY ones, the TITANIUM ones I tried from another brand of buggy got bent... that's still better than being snapped off.

4. Alum radio tray / steering plate polished like the shock towers.

I think they'd not only look super trick, but will improve rigidity in the midsection to prevent the clutch bell from hitting the chassis.

5. Transparent diff cases so we can see what the condition is at first glance without having to take them apart.

That would truly be an innovation with patenting.

6. Fuel tank with overflow (not just splash) protection.

I miss this from my K-car.

7. A XRAY designed body shell for uniqueness.

Every buggy needs to have a unique body shell to make it stand out. Everybody else does... XRAY deserves it's own shell too..

Hello!

This are my suggestions:

1. one piece engine mount
2. modified c-hub for more downtravel
3. fuel spill edge on fuel tank
4. front torsen diff.
5. shorter outdrive adapter for the front and rear diff.
6. titanium screws
7. kit for lying down gas servo
8. pocket set-up in german
9. diferent wing and wheel starburst colours
10. modified rear upper outer camber link ball joint for more downtravel

Congratulation to Hudy for building such an excellent car!!!

Merry Christmas and a happy new year!

1. One piece engine mount with engine mounting holes tapped all the way through so you can use longer screws to prevent stripping.

2. more options for shock spring softer

3. optional wider wheel hub hex (like the GS storm option) the XB8 is much narrower than any other car and this can be a good and bad thing. Make it a tuning option!

4. new front C-hubs for more front down travel and steering throw.

5. new tank with overspill drainage to bottom of chassis.

1. Machined front brace - like the rear
2. 1 piece engine mount
3. Titanium screw set
4. All alloy shock caps

Hey, that`s nice...

Here my Top Ten:

1. sealed Radio Box - the stock one is not waterprooft - even sand goes in

2. Torson or tractionlimited diffs

3. Better shockboots - maybe somethinglike in the real cars

4. Titanium screw set

5. more available springs

6. Motorholder like Kyosho

7. Clutch that can be adjusted from outside

8. Failsave spring

9. Monster Truck conversion.....luxury Monster would be nice...

10. ballbearings for the brakes

- adjustable 2 shoe carbon clutch
- central Cardan joints in aluminum
- titanium screw set anodized color Blue
- front Torsen diff.
- little pocket setup guide
- Motor .21 xray - hudy

- Torsen Front Dif
- Plastic Molded Spur Gear (to reduce rotating weight)
- One piece engine mount (with alignment system for spur gear)
- Epoxy or Carbon Disk Brakes
- 44 T spur Gear
- Aluminium made Front Upper suspension Holder - Rear
- Steering Turnbuckle spring harder
- one piece absorber cap (aluminium)
- Rear dogbones shafts

1. A series of new bodies (should be unique, with a special topic)
2. The wing is beautiful, but need more unique colors
3. Torsen Front Diff.
4. Easy to service Diff. (maybe design an inlet/outlet to let the diff. oil to
be sucked away and refill again?)
5. Epoxy/Ceramic Clutch shoes
6. A sealed radio box (at least dust/sand-proof)
7. Alu antenna tube holder
8. 4 identical A-arms
9. Stronger Carbon A-arms, Turnbuckles, C-hub,... (like the Asso/Losi Graphite option)
10. One piece Shock body (Alu)

Thanks

IM DOWN W/ THE TRANSPARENT DIFF HOUSINGS!
that would be too cool to see what is going on w/out taking them apart. great idea DAVE_D!

Well oil gets dirty fast so it would be clear until you run it, then you wouldn't be able to tell what is going on inside.

I'm Down with the new bodies. And the upper tunbuckles. something needs to be done there.

For new bodies, just go to Proline and get the CP 2.0.

I also agree with arms/c-hubs that offer more downtravel though.

A factory aluminum front brace would be nice, but since I haven't driven the car, its hard to say if it needs it or not; either way, its another tuning option.

I do not think X-Ray should make a torsen style diff simply due to cost of the diff but rather something along the lines of Kyosho's TCD's where fluid and blocks control diff action instead of several tiny gears.

I would also like to see some composite clutch shoes. The aluminum ones are nice, but they're more maintenance and when they go, they can take the clutchbell out with it.

I'm not sure if its out yet, but a 14t clutchbell is also a high priority. As it is right now, I'm going to need to use the wonderful $31 Kyosho 14t bell anytime I want to run on a larger track.

1. modified c-hub for more downtravel
2. metal eccentric bushings
3. one piece engine mount
4. titanium turnbuckles
5. rubber sealed radiotray
6. Fuel tank with overflow (not just splash) protection
7. Failsave spring

There is a 14T clutch bell already, #358514.

David Joor,

Actually, if you leave a diff in a stationary position, the oil (no matter how black or thick), will still settle. Kinda like an inkwell I would think.

Plastic made option:

- air tight/dust proof radio case,
- fuel tank with spilled drainage,
- more wearable shock boot,
- stronger front/rear lower arm,
- stronger wing to aginst bent,
- carbon/teflon eccentric bushing

Metal made option:

- 1 piece al. front torque brace,
- harder lower arm hinge pin,
- support between tuned pipe and manifold,
- separator between brake pads,
- al. antenna holder

I could be test volunteer of any option

Hmm, you may be correct, wonder how long it would take this thick oil to settle though.

it cant take that long and id just want to see how much oil is in the diff so i knoew when to change it. this is a great idea! clear diffs who would think?