XRAY - Model racing cars

I too just want to ease the guesswork if the diff is in peak condition.

I believe in Mr. Hudy's abilities so let's hope they take up the challenge. If they were able to pull off composite C-hubs, this should be easy as pie.

If I had a transparent diff case, I'd like to put a torsen in the center just to see how kewl it looks on the bench when you gun it. It would probably look like one of those expensive swiss watches with all the gears visible inside.

My wish list
1)One piece engine mount
2)Fuel tank with overflow drain
3)Rubber seal radio box
4)Titanium hinge pins
5)Better shockboots
6)Aluminium steering servo mount
7)Mod more downtravel c-hub
Better eccentric bushings
9)Stronger wing
10)Dust protector for rear hub

The best just gettin better!

I don't get the whole fuel tank overflow drain.... Where is it gonna drain?

As for my options / improvements.

Modded arms / hubs for downtravel
Stronger turnbuckles
Stronger eccentric bushings with just a little wider flange to reduce play in the arms.
Custom receiver box foam made especially for the Spektrum receiver (Cause everyone is gonna have one)
Receiver switch rubber cover needs to be included in kit.
One piece engine mount.

Also, I like the two piece shock caps. I had Mugen shock caps that were oblong and had tons of play in them after two gallons. Those babies are over $20 to replace. I am guessing the plastic piece for the xray is a couple of bucks and will probably not develop play any faster than the Mugen one piece metal ones. I also like the fact that you dont have to worry about putting the nut on too tight and restricting shock movement.

Thats all I can think of for now.

Is there stronger wings available for other buggies?.. than what comes with the XRAY?
Or are all the Wings this flexiable and breakable?

Thanks

They are all this way, in fact others are much worse. Personally my few wings have out lasted others (Mugen, Kyosho, Proline) so I am pleased. Typically what I do is get two wings, run one in practice, then the other in races. That way your beat up one is only for practice since you will do more of that. BTW - I am very anal about the look of my wing. I have cracked one on the top edge, but that is far better to have then a crack near the mounting area like all the others do.

my experience with wings is that the white ones seem to last longer than their coloured counterparts!
green Kyosho wings almost ashatter first crash

Hi Mario, here are some upgrade you must consider
1. Use different coating on your O-ring (fluorine or whatever will be fine)
specially on shock and diff section
2. Teflon washer is a must for holding shaft shock.
3. Add M3 washer as a standard addition to lock hinge pin (rear arm) and
caster eccentric bushing in front.
4. Develope less progressive shock spring.
5. Develope "twin air filter" system. Still using present air filter but needs
longer holder and mount it on top of the radio box (at least this was the only space possible) . Downhere in Indonesia, most of track is loose not hard packed which is extremely very dusty so above option will be very handy.
6. Use less dens material for your wing.
7. Please tell your teamdriver to use ride height gauge not shock spacer in their setup

Good Luck

Rgds
Arifin Tan
DALTONSHOP

Sorry, I do not have the dialed Hudy set-up system yet. I'm still waiting for one.


As far as wings go, the XB8 is very hard on wings. But that is because the wing mounts do not flex at all and don't warp like on the Kyosho. Replacing the wing is much easier then replacing the uprights all the time like on the Kyosho. Plus if the mounts bend, then when you mount a new wing, the holes don't line up right and the wing is not straight. Just do like David and I do, use and old wing for practice and save the good wings for the races. You should crash much less during a race then in practice.

Goldfinger,

Since I am a newbie.....

Please explain the "twin air filter system".

This is the first time hearing of this. How do I setup? Do you have pictures?
Very interested

Thanks,
Jackson

I would like to see the shock bodies modified with a better groove which will take a proper circlip rather than the bent wire supplied currently.

This will make the shock seal pack stay in properly.

Your first wish is available from www.kingheadz.com

Screws from hexheadz work best

YOU DONT WANT TO LIE THE GAS SERVO DOWN. (think of the grief the H7 PCR has).

Carbon side guards disintergrate.

Why add weight with an alloy tube holder?


Same prob with carbon chassis. These are off road RACING buggies, not shelf queens. Now behave and think practical, but if you want CF stuff you may want to order a few at a time.

Basic idea is to increase filtration area.
Using bigger air filter is not an option coz it will hit the roof.
Using split system/ side-by side is non effective.
So, two piece in a row is best alternative. Xray only need to invest holder and manifold moulds. Present air filter still can be used.
Sorry I dont have picture, it just cross to my mind when my carb is jammed with dirt at 40 minutes mark.

-lightweight titanium screwset for parts above chassis(perhaps anodized the hudy brown, will look sweet, or blue to match my v-spec )

-one peice engine mount

-titanium or stronger front upper arm turnbuckles

-modified castor block for increased droop

ALMOST FORGOT!

How about a dual pickup fuel tank like the new TTR bug, its quite a nice idea and would be nice to have, who else agrees?

yup thats a brand name jackson

i like the xray filter.....u can use RB replacement foams

carbon side guards and carbon chassis are not practical for 1/8 off road. aluminum antenna holder is also not as it will bend in a crash.

I completely disagree that a carbon chassis is not practical, however before I explain myself I would like to know why people believe this.

Back in 1996, I was using Carbon Chassis for my Mugen Super Athlete. A guy in the US made it for the car. The chassis was very light, if I'm not wrong the weight is just about 80 grams. The chassis has a thin (about 0.5mm) Aluminum sheet glued to the top of the carbon sheet. One thing to remind is that the chassis had no side bents like latter modern buggy chassis. The weight of my car was only 3.100 gr weighted in 1996 IFMAR WC in beulieu, England. I had to add weights to be legal at that time.

My personal opinion, the advantages :
* Lighter car
* Easier car to drive in bumpy track, carbon chassis allow more torsional flex than Alu chassis.
* I felt the car had more mechanical grip than with alu chassis, it might be because the carbon chassis allow the whole structure to flex more.

Disadvantages :
* Engine Temp gets hotter for about 5 ~ 10 C with the same carb setting

That's all I can share. I'm not pretty sure about this because I don't have much experience at that time..

Did it make it through the race or fold in the first impact.

I am a composite engineer and I would not een consider making an entire chassis plate for a modern buggy. The engines have improved so much lately that you have to use a very chunky chassis to take the stress. Lining it with Aluminium kinda negates the Idea. The temps would rise as you cant disapate heat through the carbon and because of this you'd be forced to use the BMI matrix. This is one of the most costly coatings. The whole Idea of a carbon chassis for an 8th off roader is uneconomical but not imposible. I just wouldn't waste my money on a one shot chassis.[/quote]

I am not a carbon engineer by any means but I have seen carbon with the correct epoxies destroy pieces of aluminum and not show a scratch on the carbon. They just did this example on a new carbon pipe that is coming out as well. As for the arguement on heat, once the chassis is heat soaked it loses the benefits of cooling the car. In fact it acts as a heat retainer, which can be good in situations but it is by no means a benefit. Look at the onroad cars like TC3 and Yokomo that attempted to place heat sinks under and even above the motors and they stopped the design because they created more heat then they could dispate due to poor airflow and I assume the speeded velocity of vacuum under the cars affects why there isn't much heat actually removed.

The strongest chassis I have run to date was the TQ chassis for the RC10 that I had the kickup in the front. I would really like to see someone attempt a carbon chassis again for 8th scales with the technology that we have in our epoxies today. They worked already in the past with not so good materials for 8th scales, why not now?