XRAY - Model racing cars

OK, Seeing as I just tested on a more european style track this last week. (long sweeping corners that are nicely radiused). and I usually run on more technical tracks. I came up with something. Maybe like the Euro spec 008 rubber tire EP car has two setup sheets. Maybe we could get a US baseline setup sheet aswell. Most of the setups I have used, and the ones I see from other Xray drivers seem to have rather low front spring rates, lower front roll center. The perfered front spring is in the dark blue range(nt1), and I have found that all the guys I have tested with concur that the stock setup could be a lil more US friendly(or low bite technical friendly) also so my mates down under don't have to scramble to figure things out. I originally bought all 5 sets of short springs thinking that if thats what the factory puts out, that will be the springs I will likely need for almost all tracks. save for rain races or something.. right? wrong..

my T2 I had to work a bit to find rear grip.. which seems to be a chassis/bulkhead design issue. Worked out in the 007, and the 008 rotates awesome on any surface even with stock setup. Seems a lot easier dialing grip out of the front than dialing it in...

Is there a US NT1 08/09 baseline setup in our future? seeing as I don't even use the "NT1" front springs anymore (shhh I use a third companys spring since its softer than the dark blue 25lb short fronts) that way people can get in the ballpark sooner. I have a box the size of texas just for touring car springs and thats quite an investment for joe average racer to have just to find out what works. It took some outside the box thinking to even get to this place, add in a lil help from ralph and the boys at RC America after I figured that out. and we arrive at a car that whoops. But not without a fair bit of effort. I build race cars 1:1, and race them for a living and this was a bit of work. Look at the setup sheets that are posted, 90% are for medium to high bite. Would be nice to have some low bite out of the box love in the form of a setup sheet.

Cheers,

Patrick

good job~ guys!

HELLO GUYS..and ladies if there is..

sorry if i missed out the topic,any issues on your side fron drive 1 way cup broken?we had 3 cases here in Malaysia,1 is mine on 1way,2 more on my friends on front solid.

ithink after this i m gona go on fron solid using the original fron diff housing but lock it with the adaptor provided.anybody tried on it?

ohya..would like to ask teamGp..i saw 1 of your set up on fron 500k? how was it?on hi traction surface i guess?is it quit similar to fron solid?

Where can I get the aluminium hexagon for the wheels. Do XRAY have them and if so what is the part number? Also what size should I get?

You mean wheel hubs? There are available from XRAY and with couple of different offsets. The one in kit is zero offset. I will have Brano to post the links and part numbers.

XRAY offers different alu wheel hubs for NT1:

#335250 standard alu wheel hubs
#33525 alu wheel hubs with offset -0.75mm
#33525 alu wheel hubs with offset +0.75mm

All NT1option parts you can find here

mario..can you please feed me about this issue or pm/email me..tq.

helo emeel, how are you

I also have this problem when running front solid setup on last year's Novarossi Asia Cup. Running with the original plastic insert only lasts 1 hour beofre it generates a lot of play which can be very difficult to drive when the traction are not so good

hey there bro..me fine,just completed 2nd round national championship.overall standing 1st.

you got the same problem too?we had 3drivers including me 2times already suffered this damage.mine was on 1way and solid-1way.well i guess this issue is not really just on solid mode.
the plastic stock solid not durable you mean?then i have to start thinking twice before using it..

anybody got any updates bout the portugal warm up race?

just a quick tip, i've installed the short xray turnbuckles on the rear sway bar mounts, this allws you to adjust each swaybar perfectly for tweak. just a thought you guys might want to try. no need to take the turnbuckle off from the swaybar and give it a 360 degree spin now (which is sometimes too much) to adjust the left right tweak, just give it a small turn with the hudy turnbuckle wrench

The warm-up will take next week. The XRAY team will be available at the warm-up to prepare the set-up sheet and test everything. If you will be there and need any help just contact Martin who will be happy to help you with anything.

i know xray made a wt to cst scale for the shock oils, but is there one available for diff oils?

Been using the NT1 for quite some time now and am happy with the standard set up - the only things I changed are softer springs (Xray Dark Blue)all around and locked front diff.

What should I change to have more initial and mid corner steering since my local track has three hairpins?

Try these in order:

* Keep Dark Blue front springs, but use stock silver springs in rear
* Change front roll center to +0.5 (all the way to top)
* Change ackermann insert to position D *I think* (all the way to rear)
* Try 2.2 rear anti-roll bar
* Try thinner rear diff oil, but make sure the rear end doesn't become too twitchy on initial steering inputs

teamgp - thanks for you help and quick reply. i will try them out.

hi,
started to assemble my NT1 and have a question?
the wheel axle thru the platic hub with bearing then a pin is insert thru the wheel axle after that the plastic hex wheel nut slide to the axle and notched into the pin. my question is that there is a 8mm gap between the back of the hex nut and the front face of the hub...is this normal????

Hi,

Can someone please explain the handling difference on shifting between #1 and #2 on the rear camber link locations..both on the inboard upper camber link location and outer or hub carrier side.

Aside from the fact that there seems to be a slight lowering of roll center, is there a difference in moving the entire rod inside from the kit setup #2 to #1.

Also, what does lengthening the link do?..say, #1 inner and #2 on the hub carrier.

Thanks

I've found that moving the entire rod inside stabilizes the camber gain, particularly on the inside rear wheel in cornering. This allows you to run less static camber and get a larger overall contact patch between the two rear tires. Basically, if you move the rod, decrease your static camber about 0.25d and you'll have more overall rear end traction and stability.

Lengthening the rear camber link also provides more overall rear end traction and stability.