XRAY - Model racing cars

nice review..keep em coming!

Sorry dbarnes, my mistake...

If you look at the centre diff top plate, they've removed a large section of it on the radio tray side. I used to find that the knurled collars used to adjust brake bias would interfere with the plate, which I guess is why they've removed material. All in all it just feels like they've looked at every minor detail of the buggy in detail and changed things for the better, along with the other major changes in geometry etc.

The last image shows how much material has been removed.

I have only made it through the diff's in my build and see that everyone is recommending using the .2mm shims to help with the gear mesh. Are their extra shims somewhere in all the bags because I used all the shims that came in the diff bags already per the directions?

Why are the springs shipped with the 808 so soft?
In every picture ive seen of the 808 the ride height set screw is set at least 20mm.s down on the shock body just to maintain a ride height of about 30mm.s

Will the springs work if you want the car higher than that?

I see what you mean now about the knurled brake collars. I actually took one of mine off because of that. Glad to hear they fixed that too!

For the guys who build there XB808 what would I need to buy extra that does not come in the kit but it is needed. Like some one said that a .2mm shims thats it is needed does it come in the kit or do I need to pick one up.. I am asking because I am getting ready to order all my gear for the buggy which it is coming in 2 day and want to have everything.


Thanks
Felix

shims comes with the kits and you can find them in the bag that contains the bulkheads...locate them first b4 assemblying the diffs...

Very helpful thread! thanks for posting Oli!

Finally got the shocks built, and man these are tasty. Seriously big, and superbly machined. There are no less than 22 components per shock!

The components for the front shocks and o-rings/ washers for all four.

Please note these are obviously the shocks from the first generation 808 and not the '09 spec one.


The OD of the springs is just shy of an inch!


The six hole pitsons.


The washers are definitely different from those included in previous models. They look to be machined, not stamped, and feel thicker than before. They are only needed underneath the the piston.


The ingredients to make one shock (minus the spring!).


The end assembly.


Clever machining of the end cap means the o-rings are held securely but the felt pad isn't squashed at all.




I cut some round pieces of foam to sit in the cap underneath the bladder.


Not that important, but just thought I'd show how I catch the excess oil when bleeding shocks. Means you can hold the shock upright but no oil drips down the side of the shock body!


All four shocks filled and bled.


I used a cutting tool on a Dremel to cut a little groove in the centre of the adjusting nut. I did this after I had assembled the shocks and made sure it was screwed all the way on to the body. It just means you can easily make equal adjustments left and right.


Cleverly one turn on the adjusting nut = 1mm, so 11 turns out equals 11mm!


The inserts for the shock cap are made from a piece of machined steel, and two moulded plastic inserts. They hold together very well and the assembly doesn't fall apart when the shocks are removed from the towers.


Notice the zinc plated left hand threaded screw on the left (in the picture) lower arm. This stops the right front and left rear screw from backing out.


All four shocks installed in their default holes. For the time being I've gone with the stock setup for oils, so thought I'd try out the factory settings for the shock positions. The recommended droop settings are WAY off, so I've set my droop so the front shocks are 104mm and rears are 114mm from centre to centre on the mounting points.


All in all the shocks are hands-down the nicest shocks I've built. Not sure how you US guys will feel about still using the felt washer, but I've never had a problem with dirt entering my XT8 shocks here in the UK, so can't complain. And no more split shock boots!

I like the "unitized" shock caps, much better setup there.

Thanks for the assembly pics Oli.

Good review Oli, please keep them coming!


As for running without any shock boots, this will be a first for me. I'm sure the felt does a great job in cleaning the shaft, but my "only" concern is from rocks and debris. Actually debris being thrown up and hitting the exposed shafts thus causing little dents and or scratches on the shaft(s), Intern tearing or at least accelerate the life of the O-Rings. I feel the boots do two things, keep dirt out and helps with a any debris hitting the bare shaft. Every manufacture say to carefully grease the threads when there shocks are assembled, so the slightest nick on the shaft could cause a shock failure.

Steve, I'm not sure what shock boots you are talking about, but the thin plastic/rubber ones aren't thick enough to stop any debris from causing damage to the shock shaft anyway. Thicker ones mess with the spring rates and shock dampening at/near full compression.

My point is...hehe... I wouldn't get too concerned about debris damage to the shaft. If something hits a hardened shaft so hard that it will damage it, most likely it will break or bend the shaft.

Hope this helps you take to the felt a little better.

I mostly run the OFNA Boots, and even though all boots are a thin rubber, I felt they offered more protection then nothing at all. I have seen where shafts have been roughen up by being raced exposed. (We have sandy tracks in my area) Especially the rear shafts being constantly blasted by the front wheel throwing dirt at it.

I was just curious if this was a potential issues, and using boots would be a easy fix.....

shocks look good, but I am still not real excited about the felt shafts...every shock I have ever ran with those does an inadequate job of keeping junk out of the shocks. The shock boots have done far better for me and mine seem to last about 2 gallons a set (and a replacement set is only a few bucks)...seems like a no brainer to me to use them...I am sure xray had/has their reasons for using the felt, but I would like to know what those reasons are

The reason is the felt doesn't interfere with the shock damping characteristics, consistency, and travel the way the boots do.

perhaps, but the performance gains of other shocks over the old xray shocks is night and day (and said shocks use shock boots) - I guess it remains to be seen how the new xray shocks hold up (as far as keeping gunk out, keeping the oil clean, and shafts nice and smooth)

Where was this tip found?

The tip you can find in the 808 instruction manual on page 5 and in every kit in bag nr.2 you can find 2x 0.1mm shim and 2x 0.2mm shim.

I saw it in my manual, I was curious if this was in addition to anything in te manual.

thanks

No addition, just many people have found using the 0.2 shim to tighten the mesh gives a good mesh.