XRAY - Model racing cars

+1 on the above statement.

Hello,

likes:

- the 808's performance (the best in my eyes beside the MP9)
- the 'hidden' CVD system
- the angeled pipe position as one of the results from an angeled engine position
- the low and compact layout
- the in-house option range
- shockboot hook-in on the bottom of the piston rod

dislikes:

- fast leaking shocks
(I would use X-rings)
- the stock brakepads
(I would prefer Ferodo ones)
- a little too high radio plate
(problems with Vortex and Savöx servos)
- too little screws for the wing mount
(I got 3 out of 4 broken and thatfore I had to replace a 100% ok wing mount and diffcase. The durability itself is great but when it comes to an unlucky crash once ...)
- open outdrives
(I would use closed outdrives and lighten them on the side if so to avoid brakedisc tilting on slightly worn outdrives under any conditions)
- too soft CVD pins (though I know that pins are cheaper than outdrives )
- RC box (dust)
(I would prefer a molded-in sealing lip. The box itself is separated very well in my eyes)

Best regards,
Green Wing

After reading the posts made by a lot of Xray owners I would like to to say that all of the things mentioned will in fact make the car/s better. THe one thing left that's needed is more top notch US Off-road drivers.

Wheeler, Branham, Lopez, Rocco/RCAMERICA to name a few. These guys have been carrying the burden for so long and deserve additional team support. It seems as though On-road gets more attention than off-road ever does. Mr. Hudy if you're reading this...make the US offroad team more potent for next year.

RC America has a great sponsorship program, and a great team in the US. And yes, the US onroad team is hard to rival. those same onroad drivers have tried racing offroad, but the two classes are so different, that Ralph, and Paul have their hands full in offroad. Wheeler has come very close to sealing the deal in offroad at national events, but it always seems like something happens, like your tires come unglued.

Hi
I have posted before near the start but what I would like is
Easier to shim the diffs like losi on the outside
clunk style tank
thicker front Ali shock tower
Thicker chassis 4mm for high grip tracks astro
nylon droop screws with steel inserts to stop the chassis wearing out
bigger battery box for lipo
Harder wearing diff outputs

Like the old saying goes..

Race on Sunday and win..... Sell on Monday in the shop....

Quietman, have you tried the alu braces at high grip tracks yet? That should help. On my old car I had ball braces in the front and rear, switched to the alu ones and it was a whole different handling of the car (high grip indoor).

The title of this post should be sent in the form of a letter to Maifield, Cavalieri, Tebo or the other young gunz in the industry. "XRAY WANTS YOU!" With a pic of Mr. Juraj Hudy dipl eng. dressed up as Uncle Sam with the US Army recruitment pose.

We can forget about Drake and Truhe b/c I think they signed their souls off to Horizon.

I have been apart of the team for a year now and I have never been happier with any of the cars I have owned and raced than I have been with Xray products. I want to give a big thanks to Ralph, Rocco, Brian and Pat at RC America for giving me this opportunity to run with them. I had a great season with countless top 3 finishes at local club races, top 5 finishes at out of town club races and trophy races and several top 10 finishes at races with 150+ entries. After running both the buggy and truggy, here are a few things I found that would help both vehicles without reinventing the wheel as someone mentioned earlier:

808

Likes: High Quality, ease of build, fit and finish, durability and longevity

Imrovements that should be implemented:

- Longer Hardware (there should always be at least 2 threads exposed in a nylon lock nut. Too many screw/nut fasteners loosen because screw not long enough to secure itself properly.

- Wheel Nuts (they should be nurled or have some type bite into the rim so they don't loosen and fall off)

- Improved Wing stay hardware (the self tapping phillip screws loosen up EVERY round)

- Diff Orings (need to be thicker to keep fluid inside the diff)

Other than those few things, i found the car to be very user friendly and was very satisfied overall. Im sure there could be a few more improvements but nothing else stands out that would make or break the kit in general.

XT8

Likes: Same as 808

Dislikes:

- Soft Arms ( the pin wears out the arm very fast and the truck feels loose. We don't want losi or hotbody slop do we???)

- Captured Pins all around ( needs the captured pin system like the 808)

- 808 style arms, steering system and C-hub ( not sure if the truck would benefit from the 808 style arm, steering system and c-hub setup but would be nice to find out )

- Wing stay hardware (same issue as the 808)

Again, other than that, the truck was sweet!! Like I mentioned, not sure if the truggy will respond well to the 808 suspension geometry. They went half way with it so far. Lets go all the way and see how it works!!

I just got into the sport/hobby back in april, bought a used 808 '08 model and had some problems with the diff bearings, but it was used and abused, i replaced both diff housings and got the spacers put in some ceramics and havent had a problem since, just recently i bought a '09 XT8 and it was fantastically maintained and the first race with it just after breaking in a new motor i TQ'd and won a local sportsman truggy class, IMO that to me means it is a really easy to drive truck, that same event i finished my second ever race and won it also, with all that shoulder patting i did, i can only say I think the 808 has only two issues, a fuel spill lip on the tank ( with the inserts, you can put extra fuel line in there and don't need the clunk, it can get stuck in the upright position and be worse than being on your lid imo) to minimize those rush fueling from your pit guy and the same size bearing and pinion set-up as on the XT8, just for ease of parts transfer and, i do think the 8x16 ones are more than sufficient and i seriously doubt the added weight would be that of a detrimental amount. from what I've seen from the older buggies and the 808, it is a vast mprovement.

Xray quality and fit and finish is second to none, iv'e seen other brands have to modify parts out of the package to make them work, and it seems that every part fits every time, keep up the good work and I will always be buying Xray, unless I get good enough and someone wants to pay me to drive their car, but I'd rather be driving an Xray honestly, it was my first and i got lucky, it will probably be my last, until i buy a new kit.

Truggy is spot on, if i can take it around the track for the first time without ever racing a truggy and TQ and win (sportsman class not withholding, seeing I'm new and it was only my 6th race ever) I would have to say it is, for lack of a better word, perfect.

Just in case anyone is wondering what the most popular suggestions are, I've put them all in order. (the number of times each suggestion came up is in brackets) There were quite a few posts that didn't was if they were for the 808 or 808T though so I counted them as 808 because they were generally similar.

808
Sealed radio box (13)
Move receiver box further from engine (11)
Room for Lipo receiver batteries (11)
Clunk tank (10)
Sealed CV joints or boots (9)
Downstop screw that don’t damage the chassis (9)
Longer screw into plastic parts , eg radio box ( 8 )
Better o-rings for shocks ( 8 )
ISS/ajustable suspension as standard (6)
Mud guards (6)
Pre-cut body (3)
Tank spill tray (3)
Tank lid opener (3)
More user friendly break set up (3)
Smoother/more liniar breaks (3)
Larger bearings on outer drive shaft (3)
turnbuckles that are handed like losi (3)
Carbon discs with hardened pads (3)
Straight transmission (3)
Tougher shock boots (3)
Cheap racer spec kit + Pro kit with main upgrades (eg ISS & engine mount) (2)
Include a turnbuckle wrench (2)
Thrust bearings on centre drive shaft if the transmission is not straightened (2)
Cheap racer spec kit + Pro kit with main upgrades (eg ISS & engine mount) (2)
Carry over option parts from the 808 (springs, roll bars & active diff) (2)
Universal 1 piece engine mount like king heads (2)
Exhaust spring style wire (2)
Be able to remove diff bearings without having to strip the whole diff (2)
Protection for transponder/move forwards (2)
High downforce wing (2)
More high profile team drivers (2)
Front bumper with chassis guard (2)
Rear chassis guard (2)
Stronger rear wing (2)
lightened wing mount (2)
Stiffer chassis plate (2)
Front bumper with chassis guard (2)
Rear chassis guard (2)
Stronger rear wing (2)
lightened wing mount (2)
Lighter receiver box (2)
Shock bottom caps with hex fitting so they can be easily tightened (2)
Include on/off switch in receiver box (1)
Eliminate the composite bearing hubs (1)
Side guards that fit to the body better and stop dirt getting in (1)
Lower cost parts (1)
Less flex round the engine clutch bell (1)
Optional front battery position (1)
Lexen nose cone (1)
Front wing (1)
More rear droop (1)
Get rid of the nut holding the shock piston as it hits the bladder (1)
Include option parts like roll-bars & springs (1)
Bigger pots of Greece & shock oil (1)
Closed bulkheads when removed (1)
Lightened spur (1)
Shock body adjuster nut pre marked for easy adjustments (1)
Clutch system that can be removed without disassembling (1)
Multi packs of filter foams (1)
V2 style starburst wheels (1)
Carbon top & diff plate (1)
Avid discs with hardened pads (1)
Tilted engine (1)
Hydraulic breaks (1)
Light weight outdrives all round (1)
Taller body posts (1)
Mount rear shocks on the front of the rear arm (1)
Straight engine mount position (1)
Rear wheel scraper (1)
Laser etched turnbuckles to show which way the adjust (1)
Lines on chassis to mark engine position (1)


808T
Thicker body (6)
No e-clip design (5)
Stronger wing (4)
808 style suspension (4)
Longer rear shock boots (3)
Better body posts (3)
Clips on tank for fuel lines (2)
Spill guard on tank (1)
Easy access for fuel guns (1)
Radio box designed for Lipo’s (2)
High profile team drivers (2)
Fuel lid opener (2)
Stronger suspension arms (1)
Pre-cut body (1)
Air filter fixed in car (1)
Tilted engine (1)
Bigger downstop screws (1)
Mud guards (1)
Shorter gearing for better acceleration (1)
Sealed radio box (2)
Radio box moved further from engine (1)
Better o-rings (1)
4 Shoe clutch (1)
Larger selection of spur gears (1)
Titanium turnbuckles (1)
Cheaper parts (1)
Aluminium steering blocks & rear uprights as standard (1)
Longer screw in plastic parts (1)
Downstop screw that don’t damage the chassis (1)

Still found 3 things that should be comming up.

- 4mm longer outsides of the pinion gears that allows the use of CVD boots. You can just mill a 0.2mm deep groove in so you still can push the bearings over ... no problem ... easy to produce and still way enough place for the shaft to turn free.
(Especially in the rear it's just a dirt collector, though I use dry lube on it. The dirst simply can't go out again.)

- MUCH more stabel ball carrier ring in the 13x19x4 bearings as lots of aftermarket bearings already have.

- 13x16 shims for the alu cone as that cone makes it even worth than better. Loads of pinion gear play with them even with new bearings. Don't like to buy that shims from the "K" all the time.

PS: Nice listing, Dan!

Green Wing

Nice list, though an official electric conversion has been missed off, even though it has been mentioned quite a few times.

Also, you say a standard racer kit and a pro kit twice.

opps eerrhhh I wanted to emphesis this point. to me its the number one thing Xray need to do with the next 1/8th buggy. (when ever it is)

There are lots of people damanding cheaper kits withoutcutting quality and there are as many again asking for more tuning bits in the box. The only way Xray can please bothe sets of people is to release a standard and apro spec buggy. If they try and please every one with 1 spec then no one will get exactly what they want.

Just for the record I didn't include an electric conversion because this should be a bespoke kit designed just for that or a hop-up option kit not a standard feature. (in my opinion)

I purchased my XT8 this past July in total frustration. After nearly ten years in the hobby trying to use the cheaper kits and beating the system and ALWAYS being the guy in the shade wrenching feverishly to get back running. I decided to stop fiddling around and just go buy the best in the business and spare no expense in doing so. After SEVERAL people said to me get the Xray thats what I did. I bought:
09 Spec XT8 Truggy and Hudy Setup stand and Toe plate.

RB WS9 .21 engine
Jammin J4 Pipe
JR J9000 Servos
Proline Calibur LPR wheels and tires.
JConcepts Illusion Lid.

The 5 things I like about the Truggy:
#1 The obvious quality of the individual parts and how they all fit together.
#2 The organization inside the box of all the kit parts and explicit instructions although they do need to be updated to include the 09 Specs in the main book rather than by supplement.
#3 The instructions themselves. How they wxplain each and every part and what every adjustment's purpose is.
#4 The simplistic layout of the parts on the chassis. Some RC cars are daunting because the parts are all crammed together making it appear overly complicated and hard to adjust.
#5 The fact that the car comes loaded with every option necessary to perform at the track.

The 5 things I would improve:
#1 Include a set of wheels and tires for initial setup and run-in of the truggy. Something general purpose with high wear characteristics. I want to run my truggy at home to test new setups and adjustments. I do not like ruining a $100 set of wheels and tires for a 20 minute testing session.
#2 Update the instruction manual rather than including the supplements for the 09 Specs. I struggled for hours trying to figure out the manual until the supplements accidentally fell out of the back of the manual.
#3 Increase the clearance/tolerance in the center diff area. I am finding it too tight in the area where the brake arms attach and bias are adjusted.
#4 Implement a new electronic box to allow for larger receiver packs. These new high powered servos demand more power and capacity. The current box is also too cramped in my opinion where it wouldn't have to be.
#5 Improve/Update the factory included body shell. Perhaps my biggest criticism is the fact that I ruined my lid by using the pre-made dimples for my mounting holes. And the fact that the Xray lids are way more expensive than the JConcepts lids and are thinner and less durable.

I also noticed that my kit was missing two small parts that ruined my build day. I had to resort to using an OFNA part to move forward. (It was half of the sway bar mount to the rear A-arm and not a huge ordeal but....)

Otherwise the truck is spectacular on the track. I took it out this past wekend for the very first time at a regualr track. I received SEVERAL compliments and nods from the more experienced guys at the track. All of whom wanted an Xray but claimed to not be able to afford one. Yet they had thousands of dollars worth of Traxxas product on the bench in different states of repair.....(There is no fix for stupid ladies and gentlemen.)
My near-expert friend drve my Truggy and fell in love. he runs the Team Associated equipment and until Sunday swore by it. In ten minutes he had my Truggy doing things that he couldn't do with his own. That impressed me and gave me momentum to improve my track skills.

I have read where some of you wish for a clunker style tank. I suppose I can not disagree totally although I had mine upside down a few times and it stayed running fine. My last critique regarding the fuel tank is the lid opens the wrong way to suit me. I would wish for the option to install it either direction as is on the Team Associated tank.

Lastly I will try to post a couple of pictures of my rig for your approval. I am not the best at airbrushing so when y'all get done laughing at it let me know what you think.

[img][img]http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh186/JonCoats/XRAY%20XT8%20Build%20Pics/100_3420.jpg[/img]

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[img][img]http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh186/JonCoats/XRAY%20XT8%20Build%20Pics/100_3622.jpg[/img][/img]

808

at last go back to xb8 bulkheads and normal central driveshafts
alike the XT8 2009 ones
or less bending chassis 4 mm tick, alike BCE 2 mm longer wheelbase to give 1mm more to each center driveshaft

longer rear shocks with 8 holes pistons
less flexy rear arms
front bumper with chassis guard

XT8..
Less holes on the shock tower. Limit holes to the most effective positions to make setup quicker and easier. 2 rows for shock holes is too much. Same goes for roll center.
Also, looks to me like the center drive shafts "should" be in a straight line.
I would lighten and bring in the radio/battery box closer to the center. Layout looks a bit uneven on both ends and I think the radio/batteries outweight the pipe that's on the left side of the truck.
Longer rear shock rubber boots are a must. Stronger wing. Lose the eclips on the hinge pins.
I've also realized that no matter how much locktite I use..pins from drive shafts and wheel axles always come loose and sometimes fall out.

...Dude your truck looks killer. I had an Orange paint scheme on my truck but that damn Tamiya paint started to chip after a few roll overs and now the whole paint job is unrecognizable lol. A friend of mine also drives the AE truck. I put those two trucks side by side and lemme tell you...there is absolutely no comparison. The XT8 is faaaar superior in every way and it responds better to setup changes. No matter what we do that AE still turns like a limo, while my xt8 slides its back end out all the time in a controlled slide. I love it!

What the XT8 09 needs desperately is a new body to accomodate the longer chassis. Something that will also take into consideration some clearance for the shock towers and not interfere with the rear wing when putting the body on and off. ALSO* it must be made of a more durable plastic...mine was done after one gallon of fuel.

After building my brand new XT8'09:

Likes:

-low weight.
-smooth shocks, loads of travel.
-quality, fit and finish.
-stylish.

Needs:

-proper bodyshell.
-longer rear boots, also be thicker material.
-update to 808 hinge pins.
-include V2 Steering blocks.
-Included notched CVD pins.
-Knurled wheel nuts.


So most i feel is needed is already made but must be added by customer.