XRAY - Model racing cars

Hi,

I have a problem with the belt side that came with the kit. I´m use the car only 10 tanks and the belt loose a lot of teeth. The other teeth are like new. I´ll put some pictures of the belt. The belts of NT1 aren´t cheap, so I think the quality control must be better.

Are you running on a track or just somewhere on the street ?

If you are running on the street you will have the posibillity to pick up small rocks what will come in to the belt.....

I´m running on a track only. The way that belt loose the teeth was very strange.

assuming you are running the correct side belt tension and the screws holding the mid shaft and the two speed shaft are tight.
Sounds like something in the drive train is binding. The last time one of my friends stripped a belt i Found a screw that was to long rubbing on a pully. so take the clutch bell off and check for bad bearings or something locked up. Next step is make sure you dont have debris in the side pullies. That could make the belt skip and eat teeth.

- Patrick B.
Worldspeed Motorsports

are you running a one-way...if so, check the screws that hold the pullon on the one-way.....mine backed off and I had to put them back in with thread lock.

Had the same thing!

To get back on the side-belt problem, i've only damaged 1 side belt in this season and that was because i didn't have the tention on the belt right. So check that....
Are you running the 25t or 26t side-front pulley? With the smaller one you have to tighten the belt tensioner quite far, mine even comes against the screws of the engine...

I have the same problem after 2 months of racing. It's the first time I partly stripped the side belt.
I my case I guess the belt tension wasn't correct. Is there a thumb rule for getting the right tension?

A friend of mine had a similar problem. It could be associated with the front dog bone locking up the drive train.

Any metal on metal threaded hardware need to be secured with thread locking compound. ie permatex blue or red lock.. Prepping the hardware must be done as well, no sense in thread locking a screw covered in oil. Clean it with solvent (electric motor cleaner). EVERYTHING, has a thread and is metal to metal contact needs some sort of help. most of the low temp screws get blue lock. Engine Mounts get (my prefrence)red. This includes but is not limited to one way pully screws, steering links, camberlinks, all grub screws for throttle linkage, the arm on the carb that has the set screw, the shock mounts, Unless its an interferance (aircraft hardware which usually isnt used in RC) fastener use something. This is the first step in finishing. LOL. CAUTION when using red loctite however. If you prep the surfice properly you may need heat(butane torch) to remove the screw. This is usually how i remove the lower engine mounts.

-Cheers

Patrick B
Worldspeed Motorsports

I don't have a LOT of time on this car, but I have found that the side belt can be run at full tight with no real loss in top end. One thing I have noticed is the tighter I run the belts it seems to feel like it has more rip when going from off throttle to on throttle. More testing tomorrow for the 3 Hour race at Speedworld.

-Cheers

Patrick

I remember applying quite a amount of breaking (more then usual). Can this also lead to stripping the side belt?

I bought another original belt and I don´t have problem again. The car still the same, the same track and I used this belt more than another and still like new. I really think the problem was during the manufacture process.

a guy here had the same problem with his side belt he lost 3 teeth of the belt, and a hole in the rear belt , he had no problem . i think he still using the same belt.

Which pulley do you guys use?

25 or 26?

25

I use the 25t pulley as well and I prefer the side belt pretty tight. So I dremelled a little more material away from the left side of the adjustment screw slot in the CF tensioner arm. However, the tensioner was then obstructed by the lower motor mount screw that has the thick head. So I switched that one screw to a long regular button head screw.

Now my tensioner goes down a good few mm more and the belt is as tight as it can go without being too tight and/or touching the top and bottom teeth together.

Since making this change, I haven't lost a side belt or had one strip teeth at all (including some hard crashes while on power).

Wow somany issues with the side belt. I have run my car for months now and still have the original belt on the car. The trck I run on a dirty old a dirty old parking lot that gets blown off and suger watered. Not necearilly the best conditions...

I got the same problem , I am in china ,and the track is very clean , but I still break two belt after two matchs in one month. After checking all the parts , I think there are two reason. one is the dogbone need to change to CVD, the other is chassis is too flexible , so the sidebelt is very easy to be broken.

I hate to be the type that says nothing is wrong, but you must have been getting bad belts. I run on a fairly dirty track (I have to pull tar out of the pulleys every few runs and my spur gears always get rocks) and have many days of running with the original kit belts. I run the 25t front pulley and the side tensioner is almost all the way tight, but backed off a bit.. you can see the belt bounce a bit when it's running but I don't believe it skips.

I am slightly scared to put new belts on my car before nationals now though because the ones I have have been sitting in a bag for 3 months since I bought them and could be part of the batch you have.

In fact ,I dont know what's wrong with the side belt , I am not sure it's about the quality , I will rebuilt my car this few days, so i will try to find out what's happen.
Anyway , do anyone know how to attach the photo?